Beachreading, not raiding

[beachreader]

Beautiful, quiet, relaxing, irresponsible trip. Perfect.

Day One (don't worry, I won't be doing the whole thing this way, it would be pretty boring given the lack of activity on the trip):

Drove an extra 50 minutes to another airport in order to get a great deal on USAirways. $350 including taxes, non-stop. And, because I use USAir for my work flying, I got a first-class upgrade!!! Definitely worth the extra drive time, though on the way home it was a little rough.

Flight was smooth, I was first off the plane (literally), and got to Immigration with only about thirty people ahead of me, must have been the dregs of the flight before. Hit the bathroom to change clothes, bag was waiting when I got out and I turned to the Customs line--wowza! Not as bad as the Wwtulums, but back all the way to the carousels. So I took a minute and slipped up the left side to get my pesos at the ATM. 6000 pesos for $476 all in, that's 12.6 per. The signs at various cambios, including banks, were all in the 11.5 range, maybe up to 12, so I felt pretty good about that. And, because my rooms had been mostly paid for in advance, I had plenty of money for the rest of the week (I also have about 1000 pesos in my passport from my last trip). Customs moved along at a decent pace, never really stood still, so probably only about 5-10 minutes total.

Sorry I didn't take any pics of the travel day, but everyone knows what an airport looks like, yes? :airplane:

I headed out to the ADO bus (head straight out, cut through the shuttle drivers right to the little ADO stand by the buses) and we left almost right away, very nice. From Terminal 3, the bus does go over to Terminal 2, so it fills up. About an hour down to Playa, where the guy at the airport had told me buses to Tulum leave every ten minutes. Um, no. The nice lady said I had 45 minutes to cool my heels before the second-class Mayab bus came, a bit longer for an ADO. If you are offered this choice, wait for the ADO! The Mayab isn't bad or anything, but it stops along the highway like 10 times, and because it was raining, I found this particular Mayab had a leaky roof. And it was packed with people, some standing. So next time I will definitely wait for the ADO bus for a few dollars more. :bus:

In that 45 minutes, I checked my bag at the bag check--which, unfortunately, is upstairs and I didn't see an elevator (is there one and I just missed it?). It was a bit of a drag to schlep my bag up the stairs, but nice to be free to wander. I didn't wander far, because the threat of imminent storms was clear. One new thing I noticed was a proliferation of fish-pedicures. Seriously, I saw at least three of them in the few blocks I walked, just in the front of a regular shop. Fish pedicures, for the uninitiated, are tubs of little flesh-eating fish, where you sit and put your bare feet in and they eat off all the callouses and other icky bits on your fish.

I think the sensation would probably put me through the ceiling, so I think I will stick with my usual salon here, but for those of you who think having little fish eating off your useless flesh would be a good idea, Playa is the place. :tropicalfish:

Because of all the stops on the bus, we didn't pull in to Tulum until almost 5:00, about an hour after I would have expected to get in, but it was surely a cheap way to get down there. And I know for many people, the bus transition works a lot more smoothly and could probably take only about 2.5 hours total from the airport. For me, this trip, it was more like 4 hours total. So kind of a drag, but not the end of the world, especially since it had been raining all day.

Hopped in a taxi (80 pesos to mid-beach), marveled at the changes along the road (more permanent signs for the Aldea Zama development). Got to the beach and the sky was definitely breaking up, sun was out, all was well with the world! :raincloud::sun:

[beachreader]

Because I had changed my plans and decided to come early, and because someone else at Cabanas La Luna was staying in my future room, Robinson Crusoe, I was kindly upgraded to Marrakech, the upper-level two bedroom with the fabulous deck. This is one of my favorite rooms, so I was happy as a clam.

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-VXpB2pz/0/L/i-VXpB2pz-L.jpg

Spread all my junk out on the back bed and headed down to say hi to everyone. By this time it was pretty much dinnertime for my time-changed stomach, so time for my first margarita! I have to say La Luna makes a fine, and strong, margarita. I can handle my liquor, but two of these puppies will make my head spin a bit!

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-G349MdR/0/L/i-G349MdR-L.jpg

Jacob, La Luna's manager and chef, greeted me and sat down for a chat, which turned into dinner. La Luna's Las Estrellas restaurant serves great Mexican food during the day, but at night turns into a kind of Moroccan-Mexican fusion, and puts out some really excellent food.

Here are the menus--hope you can read them, not sure if it's just me or if I didn't get the camera close enough.

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-p59TWxg/0/L/i-p59TWxg-L.jpg

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-ZsHvLTH/0/L/i-ZsHvLTH-L.jpg

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-zWvM59m/0/L/i-zWvM59m-L.jpg


At Jacob's suggestion, I started with the spinach salad, done with apples, figs, dates and a Yucatan honey dressing. Delicious, and very light, not at all sweet.

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-9Fh9rT7/0/L/i-9Fh9rT7-L.jpg


We shared the shrimp tagine and couscous. Very fragrant, with a fresh hit of cilantro that really emphasized the fusion aspect of the kitchen. The sauce was so rich and flavorful, the shrimp was perfectly cooked, just wow. It also made me really want to get back into that kind of cooking, which is perfect for the colder weather we're heading into now.

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-WLnLG7c/0/L/i-WLnLG7c-L.jpg

The couscous, by the way, was also wonderful, very light and fluffy and with a nice flavor of its own:

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-V8hmgxr/0/L/i-V8hmgxr-L.jpg


For dessert, Jacob forced me (yes, FORCED me) to try two desserts from the menu. One was the chocolate delizia, perfect for chocolate fiends (of which I am not). It was a bit strong for me, but I think that's what makes it so great for chocolate people. The other was the ginger/caramel flan, which I thought was really lovely. I'm a huge fan of flans, and adding ginger is a great touch:

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-qBNdXbN/0/L/i-qBNdXbN-L.jpg


After all that and some more wonderful conversation about things Tulum, I happily toddled off to bed.

[beachreader]

By the way, a quick note for those who were following my camera-buying adventures. I ended up with a refurbished Panasonic Lumix ZS-10, which I bought off eBay. I probably could have waited another week or so and gotten a brand-new one for the same price (found out they were dropping all over the place), but oh well.

I never even loaded the CD onto my computer, never even cracked the instruction manual. I discovered it has a setting called "IA", or "Intelligent Auto", which means the camera decides what kind of picture you're trying to take and fixes all the settings to make things perfect.

Every single picture that you will see in this TR was taken with the IA setting on. Sometimes I added flash (at Om, mostly), but sometimes not. The pictures above, from La Luna's restaurant, were taken sans flash because the light right above the table was plenty for the camera.

I think "IA" actually stands for "Idiot Auto", but I don't care. Even beyond the food pictures, the super wide-angle lens (24 mm) made a huge difference in my room interiors, the other main reason I even own a camera. I'm just super happy with it!

[Westybchbum]

Yea yea yea a BR TR!!!! Love these. Holy cow how do I get a recipe for that shrimp and couscous? Oh man!

Weird how you and WW's had a crazy customs experience. We didnt see that!! Cannot wait for more!!

[sparklegem]

Hurray! Beachreader's Trip Report! Lucky you to be upgraded to Marrakech! The deck and view looks perfect! Did you take some room photos. I would love to see the rest of the room. Having such a plush room and fantastic dinner after your long journey must have really made you fell like you had arrived. I can't wait for more, too!!

[debski]

omgosh............love the foodie pics!!!!!!! Looking forward to the rest of the report!

[beachreader]

Yea yea yea a BR TR!!!! Love these. Holy cow how do I get a recipe for that shrimp and couscous? Oh man!



Actually, one of the many things Jacob is planning is a cookbook! I'll let him know there's interest out there. :)

[mayaflya]

BR,

The shots look great! And I'm happy that you like the camera! I am a huge fan of wide angle lenses for interiors....they take in not only the "sense" of a room, but I also seem to capture details that I may not really notice until someone asks me question about it...I go back to the photos to see what I missed!

As you are our number one lodging reference source for Tulum, our knowledge base will expand exponentially!

I'm glad you had a relaxing trip...I don't know when we'll get back down to Mexico, we kinda blew our quota with two trips this year, but I don't know if I can hold out till next summer....enjoying your report in the meanwhile!

By the way, a quick note for those who were following my camera-buying adventures. I ended up with a refurbished Panasonic Lumix ZS-10, which I bought off eBay. I probably could have waited another week or so and gotten a brand-new one for the same price (found out they were dropping all over the place), but oh well.

I never even loaded the CD onto my computer, never even cracked the instruction manual. I discovered it has a setting called "IA", or "Intelligent Auto", which means the camera decides what kind of picture you're trying to take and fixes all the settings to make things perfect.

Every single picture that you will see in this TR was taken with the IA setting on. Sometimes I added flash (at Om, mostly), but sometimes not. The pictures above, from La Luna's restaurant, were taken sans flash because the light right above the table was plenty for the camera.

I think "IA" actually stands for "Idiot Auto", but I don't care. Even beyond the food pictures, the super wide-angle lens (24 mm) made a huge difference in my room interiors, the other main reason I even own a camera. I'm just super happy with it!

[mayaflya]

Oh, and in honor of the title of your trip report...I thought I'd recycle this oldie but goodie::wave: (something about Westy's TR postings made me remember this pic!)

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3276/2319066657_096e596b6b_o.jpg

[beachreader]

Thanks, Maya. That was a good picture from my beachraiding days. Ah, youth! :D

[heenan]

Been looking forward to your trip report, especially with the new camera.

[minniemex]

I want the chocolate ~ trade ya my flan. :p

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-qBNdXbN/0/L/i-qBNdXbN-L.jpg

[TheWindyCity]

YEEEEAY! Happy to see your trip report started, AND really glad that you're happy with the camera! I've never been more satisfied than with this model for a quickie point n shoot. No, you can't beat IA for everything. It even works better for the food photos than the actual Food preset - don't know why, but it does. I do like tha fact that if you really wanted to do some creative things, like smoothing out a waterfall instead of freezing it, this camera will do it with some manual fudging.

I appreciate the menu shots for the food and wine. CLL's food prep and pres. looks like something we'd appreciate. Will you post some room shots?

[beachreader]

Oddly enough, I've posted tons of room shots from La Luna in the past, so actually I didn't take any shots of the two rooms I actually stayed in. That is really strange, I know, but Robinson Crusoe was immediately torn apart upon my departure (hey, that makes me the last guest in the old room, cool!), so showing pictures of the way it was won't help.

Marrakech hasn't changed over the years except that they've added a door on the bathroom. It's the beachfront upstairs unit with two sleeping areas. The larger of the two bed spaces is the back room, with a king bed. The front room has a queen and the door to the deck. The bathroom divides the two spaces, but they're not completely separated.

The deck (view from which shown above) is really wonderful, very private as well. I can't wait to see the new Robinson Crusoe room, they're blowing it out in I think two directions, moving the bathroom, adding a seating area, etc.

So, some pics of the property, which has really grown in over the years. The first time I saw Robinson Crusoe, about four or five years ago, I think I was a season or two removed from a hurricane, and this was the view from the door:

http://www.smugmug.com/photos/533837249_75GpT-L-1.jpg

Now, after years of (thankfully) no major storms, the dune has built up and so has the shrubbery:

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-NpP8dQR/0/L/i-NpP8dQR-L.jpg

A few pics taken from the deck at Marrakech, with its great vantage point of the front of the property:

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-K3bjBB4/0/L/i-K3bjBB4-L.jpg

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-jt8sgW8/0/L/i-jt8sgW8-L.jpg

And some fun with the telephoto--this is La Luna's iconic Moon sign, shot from the balcony of Marrakech, gotta be 80 yards away:

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-k5SmqLr/0/L/i-k5SmqLr-L.jpg

[beachreader]

OK, might as well continue with the new information. One day Ruben walked me over to check out the Villa Shanti, a beautiful house owned by friends of the owners of La Luna that Jacob and the crew at La Luna are managing. So while it's not part of La Luna, is in fact several hundred meters north (just on the north side of Los Arrecifes), but it will have all the style and professionalism of La Luna.

And wow, it is pretty!

I might actually have to start a separate thread for this property since I've seen so many questions about it.

The house is kind of tucked up on top of the dune so it's very private from people walking by on the beach, but it still has lovely views. This is a little table set up right in front of the living room:

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-mGzc42C/0/L/i-mGzc42C-L.jpg

Turn around and these huge barn doors open the living room to the same view:

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-SShWD83/0/L/i-SShWD83-L.jpg

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-fFKDdtB/0/L/i-fFKDdtB-L.jpg

You'll notice, in addition to the amazing view out to the front, there is a TV. It's a very nice TV, but it's not hooked up to a satellite--it's just for viewing movies, so it's still kind of TV-free.

Behind the sitting area is a really nice dining table setup (and check out the beautiful ceiling!):

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-PBhTXLt/0/L/i-PBhTXLt-L.jpg



http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-kf62Zpc/0/L/i-kf62Zpc-L.jpg

On one side of the living room is an awesome kitchen:

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-LsJDpw7/0/L/i-LsJDpw7-L.jpg

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-PXz6Tt2/0/L/i-PXz6Tt2-L.jpg

Notice that stove--I'm thinking it's big enough for a turkey. Well, a Mexican turkey, anyway. La Luna also provides the house with a little cell phone to contact the main hotel in case of problems, so you don't have to run back and forth.

On the other side of the living room is a bedroom. I'd say it's a queen-sized bed, nice windows--all windows in the place, save for the main barn doors, are well screened, and the place is solid as a rock (as you can tell).

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-rXdvnvh/0/L/i-rXdvnvh-L.jpg

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-hjQSqdL/0/L/i-hjQSqdL-L.jpg

OK, now to the showstopper. First, outside and around to the side and up the stairs:

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-VLd9QMH/0/L/i-VLd9QMH-L.jpg

The master:

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-cz2RhKd/0/L/i-cz2RhKd-L.jpg

Soaring palapa ceiling, tons of floor space, true king-sized bed. So much floor space you could dance out to the balcony:

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-5LjbB5J/0/L/i-5LjbB5J-L.jpg

I took a lot of pictures of this room, mostly just to remind myself of the details. There are outlets, there's a fan at the head of the bed (but Ruben said there are plans to add a La Luna-style ceiling fan inside the netting immediately above the bed at some point). There are screened windows all the way around for great cross-ventilation, and even the balcony has screened sliding doors. Also a La Luna touch, a big water jug to refill your bottles with ease. This last is one of my favorite things about La Luna in general--so many hotels, even nice ones, provide plastic water bottles in the bathrooms, maybe a liter, which the average guest will blow through just brushing their teeth. La Luna does the environmentally and economically sound thing by providing giant water dispensers in every room.

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-bmR3rgg/0/L/i-bmR3rgg-L.jpg

Note also the nice addition of a flashlight just in case you need an extra.

OK, let's see, let's head over the master bathroom.

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-p9Cnspb/0/L/i-p9Cnspb-L.jpg

Even my new camera wasn't wide enough to get the whole thing. Off to the right of the picture above is the shower with a view:

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-gQV7vBt/0/L/i-gQV7vBt-L.jpg

Back out into the bedroom, we turn to the balcony after taking another view of the room:

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-z7wdfR8/0/L/i-z7wdfR8-L.jpg

First, I kind of love this little writing desk. The great American novel needs a great setting, no?

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-Z9sCM3r/0/L/i-Z9sCM3r-L.jpg

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-8SwLF6K/0/L/i-8SwLF6K-L.jpg

The next neighbor to the north, but several hundred meters away, is Playa Azul:

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-NL2q3b6/0/L/i-NL2q3b6-L.jpg

I was so happy to see sliding screened doors for the balcony.

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-5NpBCGF/0/L/i-5NpBCGF-L.jpg


Hmm, wonder if I'm running out of room for this crazy photo essay?

[heenan]

Villa Shanti looks very cool! Really like the stone, wonder if it keeps the rooms cooler.

[elvo73]

The villa looks beautiful!! I hope one of these days I can stay there, thanks for the pictures :)

[beachreader]

OK, one of the more unique features of the Villa Shanti is the separate bedroom and bathroom cabana setup outside the main house. It's the thing that I was most curious about, and is now one of the things I love most about the property. The bedroom and bathroom are each in their own cabanas, but under one giant palapa, so if you need to use the bathroom in the middle of a rainy night, at least you're under cover.

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-GBbfTXC/0/L/i-GBbfTXC-L.jpg

This is a good shot, showing the bedroom cabana and the passage back to the bathroom cabana (up the little steps back there). That's Ruben, chilling on the little bench while I do my crazy camera thing.

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-ZDdNF44/0/L/i-ZDdNF44-L.jpg

The bathroom is nice enough, basic but has style:

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-JzCcMrW/0/L/i-JzCcMrW-L.jpg

Your bathroom veranda (the bedroom cabana is right in front):

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-pmwTDvZ/0/L/i-pmwTDvZ-L.jpg

The bedroom is really sweet:

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-BHFfWrf/0/L/i-BHFfWrf-L.jpg

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-SvQQFpW/0/L/i-SvQQFpW-L.jpg

King-sized bed, again with the fan at the head, and again, Ruben said the plan is to improve that. But check out this giant screened window, right at the foot of the bed:

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-rPQj5qs/0/L/i-rPQj5qs-L.jpg

That's some view to wake up to, without even rolling over.

This is the path from the bedroom cabana down to the beach:

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-mvh5Rgh/0/L/i-mvh5Rgh-L.jpg

And this is the view from the bedroom cabana back up to the main house. It's really quite private from the main house, but they don't rent the properties separately, so you won't end up with strangers wandering by. Close enough that you won't miss the call for happy hour!

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-VhLHz9t/0/L/i-VhLHz9t-L.jpg


I will say the one drawback to the whole setup is that the downstairs bedroom doesn't have easy access to a bathroom. Either you go upstairs through the master, or you use the bathroom cabana, which, if it's raining, would be kind of a drag.

There are plans afoot to fix this issue and add another bathroom, but I don't know how long that will take. Still, I think it's a very cool setup for a family or a couple of couples, or even one couple looking for a romantic splurge, and once La Luna really has their way with the place, it'll be perfect!

[Westybchbum]

Oh, thank you BR for posting.... you absolutely captured the essence of this house. I can't imagine we won't be staying here someday. It is just too gorgeous!! Your money was very well spent on that camera, chica because you really nailed it with these photos. I am so taken in by Villa Shanti. Agreed, the down side is that outdoor bathroom situation for the houseguests that stay in the rooms other than the master but I tell you... it's charm may just overrule.
LOVE it!! Cannot wait for more BR reporting! :) XO

[minniemex]

What a perfect place, as you said, for a family or couples. Love it!! I am thinking already who I can get to go with me so that I can rent it!

[sparklegem]

What a perfect place, as you said, for a family or couples. Love it!! I am thinking already who I can get to go with me so that I can rent it!

Me, too! :)

[PhyllisB]

WOW, great photos BR! Your food pics turned out GREAT!!!!! You must be really pleased!

The lush green vegetation in all these photos is just amazing. Really makes Tulum come to life. My heart is aching!

[Ranger]

Awesome tours!!

[Grasshopper]

love it BR....always so good to look at! Gracias Amiga!

[Jorge&Marcia]

Great show BR. Love the place and your pics are great. We want more! We want more!

[sparklegem]

I love all of your cabana shots! It is so much fun to read your reports Beachreader!

[beachreader]

OK, on to Day 2 (I am really not going to remember everything). A quiet little nothing day except that Margo's coming over! :cool: We had lunch (delicious nachos at La Luna), some great chat and hang time, then I headed over to her place for a fabulous massage. I've said this before, but I actually do hold off on getting massages up here anymore, just save myself for Margo and her tender ministrations. Seriously, see the Massage Inquiry thread for more, but Margo is the real deal. We got to spend some great time together over the next few days, too, a nice benefit of being neighbors!

After my massage, Margo had to head off to town for a class, so I moseyed back to La Luna and relaxed for a while longer while I considered my dinner options.

Since I hadn't been down to the Villa Las Estrellas yet, thought that might be a nice option. Got there to find some changes; they've finally added steps up to the deck and have doubled the size of the deck. Instead of one tight row of tables, there's plenty of room for two rows. And they have nice spotlighting out there now too.

I had a lovely little appetizer of ceviche--some of the best ceviche on the beach I think, fancy in this format though it may be:


http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-tXLmNg7/0/L/i-tXLmNg7-L.jpg


Since it's lobster season, I go ahead and ask Robbie for a single serving of the paella with lobster. Sure, he says, and this is what I get:

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-mSwDqpB/0/L/i-mSwDqpB-L.jpg


In case you can't tell, this is huge! Delicious, but huge.

Oops, losing battery power, be back tomorrow, sorry!

[beachreader]

OK, back with more battery. In case you can't see (not my best photo of the week), the top layer of that large dish is entirely seafood. The rice part of things is hidden underneath, but honestly is my favorite part of the paella. Robbie cooks the rice in seafood stock, and it really absorbs the flavors. Great stuff. And as always, wonderful service (tonight from Paco, always with his sly smile) and beautiful atmosphere.

Forgot to show a pic of the new deck:

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-C9qF2LJ/0/L/i-C9qF2LJ-L.jpg

Love the extra room!

I have a number of other pics from VLE, but they all seem a little dark to me; I hadn't yet learned that the flash on this new camera is not my enemy as it was on my old camera. Nothing special missed, just more food shots.

At VLE, I met some lovely lurkers; Nancy and Bob (Bob?) from Boston. Very nice people, hope they come out and say hello one of these days! They've been going to Tulum for many years and she said they chose VLE last spring based on my report from February; that is always a nice feeling for sure! Met some other nice folks who were staying at Los Lirios--they said they ate most of their meals at VLE because it's so great there. They're also the ones who turned me on to using Expedia for booking. I'd never thought to use a booking engine like that because in the past the packagers never worked with Tulum, but these folks had gotten 7 nights at Los Lirios, INCLUDING nonstop airfare from LAX for like $750. I asked them like five different ways just to confirm that, blew my mind. Mindy and I checked on it with her computer the next day, and yep, the deal was still there. Other hotels (though not all) were on the list, all with great to good deals. I'll definitely check them out on future trips, for even though my favorite places were not included, a great deal in Tulum is always a great deal!

Took the short walk home to La Luna, headed a bit north and then back again, hoping to catch some turtle tracks, but alas nada.

No crabs, either, guess their migration time is later or earlier this year than last?

[beachreader]

Next morning was another quiet one, with a delicious breakfast of French toast. La Luna does my favorite French toast of all time. I got to taste it last year and was so happy it was just as good this year. It's not too sweet, crispy but creamy underneath, just perfect.

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-FsRWHxq/0/L/i-FsRWHxq-L.jpg

Always plenty of coffee for me at La Luna, and brekkie was pretty much ready to go by 7:30, earlier than many other restaurants on the beach.

Headed down to the beach and found, just on the north corner of the property, my first (and, alas, only) tracks of the week:

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-KzVKWRW/0/L/i-KzVKWRW-L.jpg

Unfortunately, it looks like she turned around and heading back to the water without making a nest. I hope no one disturbed her, but I know it's pretty common.

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-8SBNZ6p/0/L/i-8SBNZ6p-L.jpg

I was so disappointed not to see any turtles at all this trip. Last September we saw two big mamas, and the August before that we saw lots of babies, and always lots of tracks in the morning. I guess maybe this was just a frontloaded season, since so many people posted earlier in the summer about how many turtles were out.

I was also sad not to see my ornery little crabby friends. They were always fun companions on our nighttime turtle walks last year, and I was really hoping to see more of them on the beach. I heard people say they were plentiful on the road, but not sure where they went after that.


OK, before I forget, the house right next to La Luna, known as Casa Tranquillo, had a sign on the beachfront promoting a very good rate for a 3 BR house:

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-nZV24qM/0/L/i-nZV24qM-L.jpg

OK, I took that picture on the way up to Villa Shanti with Ruben, where I took all the pics I posted above. When we got back to the property, I asked to see the one room that I hadn't seen yet, the Jungle Penthouse. This unit is above and behind the restaurant, has three sleeping areas and great views over the jungle.

You enter here:

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-VRsP3fX/0/L/i-VRsP3fX-L.jpg

To the right is a bright bathroom:

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-6zPT3cz/0/L/i-6zPT3cz-L.jpg

Turn left from that entry room to the main bedroom. Large bed (king, I think, but I didn't get a good pic) and a lovely crib, room leading to a balcony overlooking the jungle. Nice storage in this room too.

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-vjTr6jX/0/L/i-vjTr6jX-L.jpg

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-qsmmWsp/0/L/i-qsmmWsp-L.jpg

Great sunset views from here.

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-vRwZrgD/0/L/i-vRwZrgD-L.jpg

Turning back into the room (again I missed the big bed), this shows the really nice crib. Hmm, wonder if I have any friends small enough to be happy in that?

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-rCRWTNn/0/L/i-rCRWTNn-L.jpg


Back into the main room and up that steep stair/ladder is a very nice loft bedspace. The bed can be split into two twins if need be, and there are nice side windows for cross-ventilation. I think a bounding young person would love going up and down the ladder, no problem at all.

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-tPKt2rz/0/L/i-tPKt2rz-L.jpg

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-7VFqD5g/0/L/i-7VFqD5g-L.jpg

[beachreader]

After this truly exhausting morning of Beachraiding, I settled onto the beach to relax until my lunch date with Margo. She popped up after a bit, saying "I accidentally made lunch, come on over!" Again, very nice having Margo living basically next door.

This is seriously the best egg salad ever. A little curry a little zippy, great stuff, thanks Margo! :)

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-dfCmjxJ/0/L/i-dfCmjxJ-L.jpg


At lunch I met Laura, one of a few TIers who have asked over the years about living in Tulum and has now made it a reality. She's now working at Om, so say hi next time you're there!

We took a swim in the gorgeous water, and by the time we dried off the lovely Vieve77 showed up to say hello and have her massage with Margo. You've all met Vieve on the boards, she's a real Tulum/Akumal veteran and a truly charming person.

I headed back to my beach, met some more lurkers (come on, lurkers, come out come out and play!), and hooked one of them up with a massage from Margo the next morning.

Other than that, a lazy late day and I got so lazy I couldn't make up my mind what I wanted to do for dinner. So I stopped by the restaurant to chat with Kwami (OK, not sure that's the spelling, it's short for an Aztec name that sounds like "Kwamatsi", but could be spelled some other way). Anyway, he is one of la Luna's wonderful key staff, charming and helpful as always.

So helpful was he, in fact, that he talked me into staying at La Luna (ooh, hardship) because they had a lobster special that evening. OK, twist my arm!

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-3qZmCx2/0/L/i-3qZmCx2-L.jpg

This pic didn't come out so well, perhaps because there was so lobster on the plate! Tomatoes, spinach, and a white wine sauce, really lovely, and the lobster was delicious.

A "what the heck" finish to the meal with another ginger caramel flan and some Xtabentun on the rocks, quite a splurge for this early in the trip!

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-qwGbgv8/0/L/i-qwGbgv8-L.jpg


Toddling off to bed myself again now. Will try to get some more done tomorrow night.

Honestly, this isn't sounding particularly exciting to me, especially compared to other TRs, but it's basically how I roll. :D

[sparklegem]

I think that your trip report is quite exciting! You seem to be going just my speed. I love getting to see all of the rooms, hear about your meet-ups with other TI's and your food photos look quite delicious!

[utmck]

BR, I love your pics of the house, loved all the stone work and the ceiling with the dark wood with white cement was really cool looking!!!!

[beachreader]

Good Morning Moon:

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-RGNmD3W/0/L/i-RGNmD3W-L.jpg

Good Morning Swing Chair:

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-dGgV2MN/0/L/i-dGgV2MN-L.jpg


Good morning path leading back to the room:

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-hk6WsTz/0/L/i-hk6WsTz-L.jpg


I do love it when the moon is still up when the sun is up too!

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-P5RJPPT/0/L/i-P5RJPPT-L.jpg


Another quiet day as far as I can recall. I snuck another peek at the beautiflu pool oasis at the Villa Zanzibar, and while I was at it, I learned that La Luna has done much to improve that part of the property as well. There is now a full wall running along the road and up between La Luna and Zulum. This does a great deal to alleviate any road noise that guests at Zanzibar had experienced in the past. The place is still lovely, now even more private.

I do love this pool!

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-9dCkQ5n/0/L/i-9dCkQ5n-L.jpg

Here you can see part of the wall, this is between La Luna and Zulum (the neighboring hotel to the south):

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-tCh9XFq/0/L/i-tCh9XFq-L.jpg

Here's the new street-side wall and signs:

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-v3n5vkd/0/L/i-v3n5vkd-L.jpg

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-sqWgLKB/0/L/i-sqWgLKB-L.jpg


Back to Zanzibar, I love this outdoor living space with the kitchen. Zanzibar is a house with two king suites (own bathrooms) downstairs and two queen rooms upstairs that share a bath between them. There's also another bathroom out at the pool (very large and clean, by the way), and a dining room at the pool as well.

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-rPFD7Dm/0/L/i-rPFD7Dm-L.jpg

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-Cq5vvbp/0/L/i-Cq5vvbp-L.jpg

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-tTJBKQf/0/L/i-tTJBKQf-L.jpg

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-NG875G2/0/L/i-NG875G2-L.jpg

I'm sure I have a better picture of the dining area on another report from last year, but here you go.


After a quick swim and some broasting time (did I mention how hot it was this week?) I headed up to the restaurant for lunch. For a restaurant justifiably famous for its dinnertime Moroccan/Mexican fusion cuisine, La Luna's Las Estrellas does a great job with Mexican food for breakfast and lunch. These beef nachos are seriously awesome (and I am not a nacho fan here in the US):

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-Nn6fpkp/0/L/i-Nn6fpkp-L.jpg

The view from my usual table. Love it!

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-5gR6cSX/0/L/i-5gR6cSX-L.jpg

The framework in the picture is used for moon-shaped globe lights at night. Really beautiful!!!

This is close to the same shot taken at night, just not very good:

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-cwtLLrq/0/L/i-cwtLLrq-L.jpg

And this the other view:

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-5FbScsk/0/L/i-5FbScsk-L.jpg

OK, back to daylight!

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-5gR6cSX/0/L/i-5gR6cSX-L.jpg


And I just remembered, today is THURSDAY! That means it's Om night, and I need to hit the beach for a nap (two La Luna margaritas at lunch will do that to a person) and a shower and then off to pick up Margo and our Mystery Date for the evening!

[sparklegem]

La Luna really looks beautiful! I love your full moon daytime shots. Villa Zanzibar is amazing! It makes me start trying to think of who we could team up with to stay there. Are the globe lights lighted by candles?

I am excited to find out who your mystery date is! I think I know who it is! Is this him?: http://overthetopstudios.typepad.com/.a/6a010536efd16c970c0120a5f9fbcd970c-pi

[beachreader]

I am excited to find out who your mystery date is! I think I know who it is! Is this him?: http://overthetopstudios.typepad.com/.a/6a010536efd16c970c0120a5f9fbcd970c-pi


That is hilarious, good Googling! :D And actually, not too far off the mark!

Sorry to leave you hanging, but I have to go now. Will try to be back tomorrow night!

[minniemex]

I love nachos and I am going to have me some of these ~ great great food picture!! YUMMY!!

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-Nn6fpkp/0/L/i-Nn6fpkp-L.jpg

[minniemex]

La Luna really looks beautiful! I love your full moon daytime shots. Villa Zanzibar is amazing! It makes me start trying to think of who we could team up with to stay there. Are the globe lights lighted by candles?

I am excited to find out who your mystery date is! I think I know who it is! Is this him?: http://overthetopstudios.typepad.com/.a/6a010536efd16c970c0120a5f9fbcd970c-pi


That is hilarious, good Googling! :D And actually, not too far off the mark!

Sorry to leave you hanging, but I have to go now. Will try to be back tomorrow night!

Or ~ was it ??? Miguel????

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/508282400_C9tfz-M.jpg

[beachreader]

Snort. Poor Miguel, he has no idea how often he's been shown on this site for reasons other than his vast expertise in the Sian Kaan! :o

[beachreader]

OK, it's Thursday!

First I stopped at Margo's to pick up my dates: Margo, Vieve, and our Mystery Date. On the walk down to NVR to meet the rest of the gang, Margo hopped up on a cool boat for a photo shoot:

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-3sHXfXN/0/L/i-3sHXfXN-L.jpg

I kind of liked this one too, wasn't sure how to crop it to get rid of the buildings, but kind of liked it anyway:

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-MTLZnmw/1/L/i-MTLZnmw-L.jpg

OK, headed down to NVR, met the rest of the gang who had really just arrived and shaken off the north, and moved on down to OM.

One of my favorite people and my new favorite doggie, Jaeger (this is my first flash photo with the new camera, was kind of psyched about how it didn't wash them out):

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-zFJZ7QV/0/L/i-zFJZ7QV-L.jpg


And here is our Mystery Date, Brian. Poor guy had no idea what he was in for, posting that innocent question on the board about looking for a good butcher in Tulum. :rolleyes: Our Brian is a chef and is a great guy to have some meals with. Hope he comes back and posts now and then!

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-MR2wZfX/0/L/i-MR2wZfX-L.jpg


The name tags, by the way, were Lainie's fun addition to the party--they all had silly names like Amanda Hugg or Margo Rita (OK, I made that up because I had a brain fart and couldn't remember the other "safe" names). I can't remember what Brian's original name was, but everyone kept calling him The Meat Guy, so he ended up with a custom nametag.

This time we had a margarita tasting--Angelo's crew came up with a bunch of different flavored margaritas, and/or flavored salts for the rim. All were delicious!

TyT has much better pics of the food than I do, but my favorite was this little shrimp/cucumber starter, which they called an Aguachile (not sure why "water chile" makes sense for this, but man, it was an outstanding explosion of flavor):

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-M2TM3Rk/0/L/i-M2TM3Rk-L.jpg

Wow, I just can't say enough about that shrimp.

I'm not going to go through every course, suffice to say it was a great evening of food and drink and great fellowship with some wonderful people!

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-tpR4wTP/0/L/i-tpR4wTP-L.jpg


Mr. Jaeger turned out to be very popular! He really is a sweet dog, and I am pretty picky about my dogs!

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-V99BH84/0/L/i-V99BH84-L.jpg

That dessert on the table was a chunk of fried banana with mango-pineapple salsa.

Oddly enough, I seem to have missed out on quite a few courses for pictures, but the whole thing was great, thanks again Angelo!

[beachreader]

After a night like that, you need some stodge for breakfast. I love the chilaquiles at La Luna. Couldn't decide between chicken or nopales (cactus), so asked for both. Great choice!

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-VHGkZT3/0/L/i-VHGkZT3-L.jpg

With nothing better to do after breakfast, I took a little stroll south.

Ana y Jose has added fancy new sheers on their chairs:

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-8McHtBM/0/L/i-8McHtBM-L.jpg

One thing that bugged me about Ana y Jose this trip was that they had what really looked like a bus trip on at least one day. Since I know they have that beach club up the beach a bit, I was very surprised to see this, and if I were paying what their regular customers paid, I would be pretty upset to have a bus tour on my beach. Having said that, I know that hotels have to do what they have to do to keep the business coming, but still. Zulum also had a bus, and of course Cabanas Tulum had one or two as well. So I guess it's getting to be a popular thing, bringing people down from wherever to visit the beautiful Tulum beach without actually sleeping there.

I decided to check out the new building going on at Cabanas Tulum. We've known for a while that they're developing the middle section of the hotel, the old rooms 1-17 (actually I think the first few, maybe 1-4 or 1-6 were given over to the restaurant). They've added a second level on these rooms and have created what I believe they're touting as an "adults-only" hotel (though I'm still not sure how that works with the family-friendly hotel on one side and the restaurant on the other). They're still planning on having a swimming pool, also private for the new section, but it hasn't been built yet. As of mid-September, there was still a lot of work going on, but they had quite a few rooms finished.

OK, pics. From the north end of the property, you can really see what a huge piece of land CT has. These are the less-expensive rooms that were re-done a year or so ago:

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-Tx5tsGk/0/L/i-Tx5tsGk-L.jpg


Just south of these, the old steps that went up (as far as I recall) next to room 17 (veterans, please correct me). The stick fencing protects the as-yet-developed bits:

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-zCHxwzL/0/L/i-zCHxwzL-L.jpg

A central part of the property, where they seem to keep their collection of spoon chairs.




http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-gFncNHp/0/L/i-gFncNHp-L.jpg

OK, now on to the new stuff:

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-QPVP94h/0/L/i-QPVP94h-L.jpg


Looking towards the restaurant; can't believe I didn't get anything closer!

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-TZzSvJC/0/L/i-TZzSvJC-L.jpg


At restaurant level, looking to the right down the row of first-floor balconies. Much more private than they used to be (someone can post an old CT pic of the same view, I might even have one will go look later):

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-KThnScz/0/L/i-KThnScz-L.jpg

I asked to see one of the upper rooms, since I knew the view would be great. Personally I find the style of these rooms to be a bit on the cold side, very stylized, very Playa-feeling, if you know what I mean, pretty enough but not "Tulum" to me. But the space is nice and the balconies are awesome.

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-wFHPWwH/0/L/i-wFHPWwH-L.jpg

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-FbV8Nbc/0/L/i-FbV8Nbc-L.jpg

There are ceiling fans to help with times when the a/c isn't on. And as I said, the balcony is great:

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-mHvcB6P/0/L/i-mHvcB6P-L.jpg

On the upper units, there's a bonus space on top. I don't know the difference in price, but this sundeck is very cool. The steps leave from the balcony and head up for a great view of the whole area and a sunbed for private sunning:

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-PKbpLCf/0/L/i-PKbpLCf-L.jpg

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-hDKKtnr/0/L/i-hDKKtnr-L.jpg

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-HXSFFrp/0/L/i-HXSFFrp-L.jpg

Beautiful bathroom, despite the odd peekaboo window from the bedroom (shown in the top photo). At least the toilet had a separate door, so the open-ness was just for the sinks and shower.

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-Pf3FG8c/0/L/i-Pf3FG8c-L.jpg

Very handsome across the front of the finished units, the Ziggy Beach Club is right in front.

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-Tsgx8sV/0/L/i-Tsgx8sV-L.jpg

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-wFk7bzr/0/L/i-wFk7bzr-L.jpg

So that's the new Cabanas Tulum. As I said, really spiffy room, great balcony, just a bit too "Playa" for my personal taste. And the rates they were quoting at the desk were outrageous IMHO--$195 in September? I'm sure you can find a better deal online, but I was really surprised that she quoted me that price with a straight face in September.

[ilovewyoming]

Phyllis...when are you heading to Tulum....? I am sure you have started your little nina speaking spanish, Si?

[ilovewyoming]

OMG.. best pictures and report ever. You need to be a travel guru..of Tulum. Thanks Thanks Thanks for all the great info and beautiful pics you give us.
Margo looks amazing, and so happy. The food makes me gain pounds just looking at the pictures and the pictures of the sea and beach make me want to be there sooner than later.
Good Job! Thanks

[minniemex]

First place I ever stayed in Tulum was Cabanas Tulum. Back in 2006.

Here are some of the old pictures of CT ~

http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k83/Minniemex/Tulum/DSC01036.jpg



http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k83/Minniemex/Tulum/DSC01037.jpg

[TheWindyCity]

Had no idea La Luna's kitchen was so creative. Last time we were there, they were closed for a week in June...we were pretty disappointed. Really appreciate your usual in depth report!

Great photos, especially this one:

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-dGgV2MN/0/L/i-dGgV2MN-L.jpg

[utmck]

BR -

Love the pics of Villa Zanibar!! Does it get enough breeze or does it have A/C?

[beachreader]

Minnie, that first one is exactly the picture I wanted, thanks! And I love that picture of Fred, I remember seeing that years ago having no idea I'd get to know you both! :-)

Utmcks, Zanzibar does not have a/c. I've never slept back there, but they do have fans. I think it would be good in wintertime, but yeah probably a bit on the hot side in summer, since it's back towards the road, no beach breeze. But the pool is gorgeous, SO refreshing! And so private, even though it's right behind the restaurant--the greenery is so dense you can't even see the buildings in front of you.

[Solbound]

Had no idea La Luna's kitchen was so creative. Last time we were there, they were closed for a week in June...we were pretty disappointed. Really appreciate your usual in depth report!

Great photos, especially this one:

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-dGgV2MN/0/L/i-dGgV2MN-L.jpg

Yep this was my pick also! Looks like you are getting the hang of that new camera. Great info as always and food looks super! La Luna is near the top of our list so one day for sure. Awesome to hang with you and the gang at OM!:cool:

[patmex]

Chiquita!

Mas, mas, mas, porfa!

:)

[beachreader]

Sorry guys, been super busy, hope to get more done later tonight.

[minniemex]

Sorry guys, been super busy, hope to get more done later tonight.

Promises, promises.

Just giving ya hard time! I know you have been busy. Damn bosses.

[beachreader]

OK, think I can squeeze in another post here.

After leaving CT, I decided to head down to Villa Las Estrellas for lunch. I'd been craving Robbie's ceviche over guacamole ever since that little teaser taste the other night. I also enjoyed one of their famous Fidel mojitos (apparently done in the style Fidel Castrol preferred, with a little beer in the mix--gives it a nice richness and a little fizz, but no beery taste). It's kind of a fancy ceviche, but sooo good!

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-R6B2262/0/L/i-R6B2262-L.jpg


After lunch, I guess I didn't do anything for the rest of the day (at least, no pictures to prove anything either way). I took a walk north at sunset towards dinner in beachtown and found this very cool little sand sculpture, maybe up around Coco? Caught one shot before a wave came up and took it away:

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-v5NrfQJ/2/L/i-v5NrfQJ-L.jpg

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-pg8SHmc/0/L/i-pg8SHmc-L.jpg

Pretty interesting cloud formation, again near Coco.

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-6kZq9Qr/0/L/i-6kZq9Qr-L.jpg


Does anyone else ever see the jaguar (or maybe a tiger) in the big rock out in front of Hemingway? It always looks like a big cat swimming out to sea:

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-BVxFwhC/1/L/i-BVxFwhC-L.jpg


Quick pic of Coco and those intriguing tower rooms. Has anyone ever stayed in or see inside them? I've only ever seen the cabanas up close:

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-g7vF2GZ/0/L/i-g7vF2GZ-L.jpg

Ooops, once again running out of juice. Will try again later!

[susan]

Do you know if the cabanas at CoCos have fans?

[TheWindyCity]

Oooohh man....it does look so good..gracias

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-R6B2262/0/L/i-R6B2262-L.jpg

[DougSR]

If you are offered this choice, wait for the ADO! The Mayab isn't bad or anything, but it stops along the highway like 10 times, and because it was raining, I found this particular Mayab had a leaky roof. And it was packed with people, some standing. So next time I will definitely wait for the ADO bus for a few dollars more. :bus:


Words to live by. I learned this in 2008. No more Mayab for Doug.

[DougSR]

Yes. My friend Sergio stayed there in May. I ask him if they have photos of the interior.


OK, think I can squeeze in another post here.


Quick pic of Coco and those intriguing tower rooms. Has anyone ever stayed in or see inside them? I've only ever seen the cabanas up close:

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-g7vF2GZ/0/L/i-g7vF2GZ-L.jpg

Ooops, once again running out of juice. Will try again later!

[beachreader]

Sue, I don't think the cabanas have fans, but I'm not sure. Hopefully someone will post about that. Maybe Tim? He stayed there a few times. I think the tower rooms do have fans, though.

[beachreader]

And thanks, Doug, it would be really great if he has some pics to share with us!

[FITZ]

Loving your report, as always! I really miss the old Cabanas Tulum (price and serenity), even with a few critters in my bed.

[Westybchbum]

Hey BR, loving all the info! You were quite busy in the middle of all your relaxing!! The new camera has done you well, love the pics and the posting, cant wait for more!!

[beachreader]

Hi, Westy! Happy to see you around here!

Ok, sorry it's taking me so long to get this thing done, slowest TR ever maybe. Hope I can remember everything by the time it's done!

So as I said I was heading up to beachtown for dinner. On the way I passed through the new SandBar (Ok, not that new, but new to me this trip) at El Pez. A few pictures while it was still light enough to see, but the place is very cool, great atmosphere, very Caribbean, and since it's owned by the same owners as La Zebra and Mezzanine, terrific drinks.

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-w2qZHNz/0/L/i-w2qZHNz-L.jpg


http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-xvm386h/0/L/i-xvm386h-L.jpg

Sorry, I think I have better pictures later.

I swung by Mateo's to check on the TV situation for football this weekend, had a shot with the bossman and met Antonio, Margo's go-to man for Sian Kaan tours. He's an independent now but worked for a while at CESiak, so you know he's got the cred. He can be reached through YucatanOutdoors.com, or by e-mail at antonio at yucatanoutdoors.com. If we get back down there in December I'll definitely be contacting him.

Mateo's was hopping pretty well (this was a Friday night, after all), but I had steak on my mind and headed farther up to the beach outpost of El Pequeno Buenos Aires. It's always dangerous to go to a place specifically to repeat a great meal, but I can never resist.

One of the things that my friend T and I discovered in February was that the salads were ginormous, but this time it was much more reasonably sized. Still substantial, but not ridiculous:

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-qbMdMRS/0/L/i-qbMdMRS-L.jpg

I had the vacio again, the Argentinian cut that's hard to find up here in the US and so tasty. It's a pretty big portion, decent for sharing if you're two people with modest appetites, especially after those salads. This version was very good but not the OMG good it was in February. I'd still go back, though, I love that little dining room out on the cliff.

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-nM46s8L/1/L/i-nM46s8L-L.jpg

That's the end of Friday, I really promise to get more done tomorrow night, more food pics to come!

[Westybchbum]

That place (El Pequeno Buenos Aires) looked so cool when we went by it. We have turned into such creatures of habit down there but I am putting this place on the short list. Way cool!

Love the pics of Sandbar in the daylight! I recognized the one table on the beach quite well with fond memories of Chuck flicking his knickers!!

Cant wait for more!!!

[utmck]

Westy, what are you talking about.... we didn't even go to Sandbar????? Knickers, we don't have those in Texas, I think that is a Euro thing. You obviously are thinking of a different vacation.

[Westybchbum]

Westy, what are you talking about.... we didn't even go to Sandbar????? Knickers, we don't have those in Texas, I think that is a Euro thing. You obviously are thinking of a different vacation.

Your denials just make you look all the more guilty my dear. :)

[TheWindyCity]

Ok, sorry it's taking me so long to get this thing done, slowest TR ever maybe.

Hmmm....I think I got you beat on that point.

[TheWindyCity]

Hey Beachreader, we used to have a map here somewhere that you had typed the locations of places on the beach road. It was really accurate. I could not find that one specifically using the Search app here on the forum. Do you think you can check and update that map? The one at www dot todotulum dot com slash downloads slash tulum_map dot pdf (http://www dottodotulum.com/downloads/tulum_map.pdf) is not really up to date, as it still shows The Mayan Grill thats been gone for 3 years!

[beachreader]

OK, let's see what pics are next. Looks like the next morning I took a beach walk, probably just down to Om. Took a couple of pictures of Cabana Samasati, a really neat little inexpensive rental that has now been sold, and since we don't know yet if the new owner will be renting it out, the pics don't help anyone.

I've always been intrigued by this handsome building, finally noticed a sign on the fence out front. Need to go check that out, see if they have a website:

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-z9PWgJT/0/L/i-z9PWgJT-L.jpg

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-3Qw9Mn3/0/L/i-3Qw9Mn3-L.jpg

Looks like Coqui-Coqui is open again (last Feb. I had seen a Clausurado sign across the shop openings). This time there were actually people out front, too:

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-kLjfHdN/0/L/i-kLjfHdN-L.jpg


Gratuitous beach shot:

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-BZTpvnc/0/L/i-BZTpvnc-L.jpg

Parayso:

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-tFsbcbM/0/L/i-tFsbcbM-L.jpg

Good old Tita Tulum, still one of the most reasonable places on the beach:

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-FTR4G2n/0/L/i-FTR4G2n-L.jpg

I can never remember the name of the little camping place near Playa Selva, so I finally took a pic:

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-PSjGjhz/0/L/i-PSjGjhz-L.jpg


Waved at the turtle nest cage at Nueva Vida (still can't believe I didn't see a single turtle mama or baby and just that one track!)

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-TFRs772/0/L/i-TFRs772-L.jpg

The bummer of it is that I noticed these two cages, which I think they put around nests that are about to go. The next day (or maybe another day) I noticed the cages were gone, so I must have missed a hatching! Guessing the Westy crowd did too or they'd have taken pics.

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-DXv2wsz/0/L/i-DXv2wsz-L.jpg

This white building houses Nueva Vida's Horizonte Perdido (upper, with a king bed) and Magico Amenecer (lower, with two doubles). I was shocked to see how much the greenery in front of Amenecer had grown up--so dense, in fact, that I'm not sure I'd want to stay there again--there wouldn't be any air!

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-wqc5pFx/0/L/i-wqc5pFx-L.jpg

The whole property has really grown in, but it seems that most properties have grown in a lot--I guess that's the benefit of a few storm-free years, protects the dunes and the buildings, but at a certain cost of breezes and views on lower units. Happily, Nueva Vida has a number of units up on stilts to catch whatever breeze they can.

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-59FXmvH/0/L/i-59FXmvH-L.jpg


Next door at Casa de Las Palmas, looks like they're doing some work, not sure what or how, but I'm sure it's going to be beautiful!

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-8gpJ2zd/0/L/i-8gpJ2zd-L.jpg

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-B6k5gsf/0/L/i-B6k5gsf-L.jpg


Headed on down to Om for lunch. For some reason I was craving garlic sauce and hoped to catch Angelo. I missed Angelo but did catch Christian, not cooking but just hanging in the restaurant using the wi-fi to book his flights to Mexico City. Nice to say goodbye and wish him luck in his future.

Remembered Om had really good burgers so I ordered one even though it wasn't a bbq Sunday. It was still really good, and man, those fries!

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-WBsjF6H/0/L/i-WBsjF6H-L.jpg

Even fries can benefit from a little side of garlic sauce, no?

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-ZF9FWvv/0/L/i-ZF9FWvv-L.jpg

Moseyed on home for a lazy afternoon, passed some cool driftwood, started thinking about dinner. Hmmm.


http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-RCDDWKx/0/L/i-RCDDWKx-L.jpg

[minniemex]

BR ~ when I stayed in the casita at Casa de Las Palmas, Bob & Bonnie talked about building another smaller villa to rent. Hopefully it will be more complete when I am down & I can stop in and ask.

[minniemex]

I also found this on Facebook (http://www.facebook.com/group.php?gid=113957535285861) for Cabanas el Caracòl. And then just this (http://cabanascaracoltulum.blogspot.com/) but it doesn't seem current either.

[heenan]

Love the beach walk pics. Always nice to see how the various properties are looking or what changes have been made since our last visit.
More gratuitous beach shots please :)

[Lynnette]

It's always fun to "walk the beach" with you!! Great detailed narrative and gorgeous pics! I'll take OM garlic sauce with fries, over ketchup anytime!!! Thanks for helping me take my mind away from Rina.....maybe she'll thin out some of that tropical foliage in front of Amenecer.

[beachreader]

Just looking at this pic again, I think the reason I took it was because the shine on the wood reminded me so much of sardines!

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-RCDDWKx/0/L/i-RCDDWKx-L.jpg

[beachreader]

OK, so after an afternoon of I-no-idea-what, I texted with the Meat Man (Brian, our Mystery Date who is also a chef) and we decided to meet up for dinner. The original plan was for Zamas, but when we got there we were informed that there was something wrong in the kitchen, only a satellite kitchen available and a very limited menu. Since we were hoping for something more substantial than pizza that night, we headed over to El Tabano. Brian had just been there the night before, but as we Tabano lovers know, it's definitely possible to eat there more than once and be happy!

There was a wine tasting/TV show thing going on at Tabano (the crew had been at La Luna earlier in the day), but we happily settled just out of the camera light and watched the proceedings. Had a nice chat with Laura, the owner, and one of my favorite waiters of all time, Israel, who I met back in my very first overnight visit to Tulum when he was waiting down at Dos Ceibas.

We started out sharing their justly famous stuffed jalapenos (rellenos), this time not as spicy as the first time I had them (which is a good thing for me), guess it all depends on the chile, right? Two large chiles with a meat stuffing, definitely a good sharing dish unless you're starving.

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-P3mCpzz/0/L/i-P3mCpzz-L.jpg


Brian has discovered a wonderful Mexican wine the night before, but in order to continue the exploration, we took Israel's recommendation of a Mexican nebbiolo from L.A. Cetto, a winery in the Valle de Guadalupe. I have never really thought much of Mexican wines, but WOW, this was a delicious wine, full and rich. I was so impressed I came home and asked my local shop to order some, and they did find it but a different vintage. I need to go out and find more.

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-w8wKRfk/0/L/i-w8wKRfk-L.jpg

Brian had the beef barbacoa, technically barbecue but like nothing we have here. Fantastic, like a dark, rich short rib but less fatty. Tabano's real skill is in their sauces, I've never had a bad one!

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-HbFBvv5/0/L/i-HbFBvv5-L.jpg


I had the pibil, but I think it wasn't technically a traditional "cochinita pibil". It was pork leg in a rich adobo-based sauce. Again, who is the crazy genius behind their sauces?

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-sVj5WZG/1/L/i-sVj5WZG-L.jpg

Both were amazing with the wine, which was very bold to cut through all the rich sauce flavors.

For dessert, oops, we'd run out of wine. So Israel scored us a couple of glasses of the Mexican Petit Syrah that
Brian had enjoyed the night before. Again, WOW. I didn't get the name of the wine, nor the label. Hope Brian chimes in here sometime if he remembers!

With the wine, we shared some flan-ish dessert. Delicious!

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-tKZmgZf/0/L/i-tKZmgZf-L.jpg


Seriously, I love everything about Tabano except for the fact that if it's hot out, it's really hot back there, and if there are bugs out, you do get eaten. They do provide Autan, which was nice (because I forgot mine), and that helped a lot, and we were fine after that and able to relax and enjoy our meal.

But even though I feel at hOMe at OM and love the restaurants at La Luna and VLE, I seriously adore El Tabano--best food going, and by far the best wines I've seen down there. I love the style and the service, pretty much everything. It would be beyond belief if they had an ocean view!

[beachreader]

I think we may have moseyed over to the SandBar for an after-dinner xtabentun and some old-school Bob Marley. I do think SandBar could definitely find a place in my life, especially since we discovered on the way out a giant smoker! Apparently they do a smoked fish dip or some other kind of appie, and one guy said they sometimes do whole smoked fishes and other things. Can't wait to get back there in high season and see what they do with that thing (sorry, it was late, didn't take a pic).

Needless to say I slept REALLY well that night, and woke to the pleasant sounds (to me) of a storm the next morning. It was cool enough to really enjoy snuggling down in the bed and hearing the rain and thunder.

It's hard to get a good picture of rain sometimes, so I tried focusing on the footbath:

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-mcGZswJ/0/L/i-mcGZswJ-L.jpg

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-7wpWWNc/0/L/i-7wpWWNc-L.jpg

Finally ducked through the fading rain for breakfast, decided on a nice omelet today.

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-P7rCdDN/0/L/i-P7rCdDN-L.jpg


I think the sun came out by the time I was done with breakfast, probably had a leisurely morning on the beach, then realized it was Sunday (I think it was Sunday) and ScottyB's birthday. We had talked about meeting up at Mateo's for football at noon, so I decided to wander up there. Matt had promised TVs by Sunday, but there were none in evidence, and I know that sometimes things just don't happen the way you expect them to. He had them in by Monday night since the Westy crew enjoyed the Giants game there, so I think Mateo's is going to be a great place for sports going forward.

Anyway, not sure if Scotty was able to find the Steelers game, I hope so since it was his birthday, but since I was there and all I decided to stay for lunch. I'd heard the burgers were awesome, so I figured I'd give one a try.

I hope this menu shot is legible:

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-9tD48ht/1/L/i-9tD48ht-L.jpg

I had the Tex Mex burger (how can you resist a poblano chile on your burger?) and it was really really good. The onion rings were completely awesome as well, so glad they gave me a taste of both fries and rings!

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-rxwnGqz/0/L/i-rxwnGqz-L.jpg


I will refer you all to Westy's TR for fantastic photos of Mateo's--seriously, Matt should use them in his advertising. But I will definitely be back to Mateo's many times, very cool, very fun place.

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-mxLsSQR/1/L/i-mxLsSQR-L.jpg


Oh, and do let Matt know you're from Tulum.Info when you go there! He's always happy to meet his online fans and you may end up with a shot with the boss. ;)

[beachreader]

OK, it's Sunday evening, definitely time for salsa night at La Zebra. I met up with Margo, we decided to get some dinner before heading over to LZ. Nice walk down the beach and chatting in the gathering dusk. We stopped in at the new resaurant at LuvTulum, were greeted, interestingly enough, by a Tibetan man, but even though it was intriguing and I'll check them out again, we decided to move on. Were heading to Om when I realized I hadn't been to Casa Violeta lately. It's such a lovely space there. We decided to split a pasta, a pesto of some sort, which I found delicious and subtle but Margo liked OK but craved more punch.

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-xjkwwdX/0/L/i-xjkwwdX-L.jpg


Such a nice space, I love these basket lamps under the palapa:

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-9qTR2RQ/0/L/i-9qTR2RQ-L.jpg

And onward to La Zebra, where we were meeting up with the Westys. The band was stunningly loud but I got used to it after a bit and had some big fun with the gang.

Lainie Utmck and her biggest fan:

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-tmQx9Tk/0/L/i-tmQx9Tk-L.jpg


OK, maybe not her biggest fan, since we found out later (actually, not til Westy's TR) that Lainie and Chuck were engaged earlier that evening, how great is that?! Couldn't happen to nicer folks, really, you guys are perfect together! Sorry I horned in on your walk home, but how was I to know? Heck, I thought you guys were already married! :o

After I dropped the Utmcks at NVR, I walked on home, still hoping to see some turtle action. Not only no turtles, but no crabs either. No people either, and it started getting a little bit creepy on the walk up to La Luna. Not actively scary, nothing is down there, but it was a little too quiet, if you know what I mean. :)

Another great sleeping night after lots of walking, north to Mateo's and south to LZ and back again, and a little bit of dancing, and maybe a few cocktails. ;) By the way, Sue, I owe you one!

[beachreader]

God, is it already Monday morning? Decided on the excellent chilaquiles again, slightly different presentation today. Chilaquiles seem to be one of those dishes, like tiramisu, that are almost always delicious, but can be served in a hundred different variations.

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-QbNZmqp/0/L/i-QbNZmqp-L.jpg

Holiday weekend over (it had been Independence Day long weekend), here's my beach at 9:00 a.m.

To the north:

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-2JbXrpK/0/L/i-2JbXrpK-L.jpg

And to the south:

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-Rsbhbmr/0/L/i-Rsbhbmr-L.jpg

The sky was just SO blue all week long. I love that my camera was able to capture it so well.

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-Zf9V9Bt/0/L/i-Zf9V9Bt-L.jpg

I took a look at the upper level of the Captain Dale house at La Luna. I've stayed there before, but since my last stay they've redone the roof to add cross-ventilating windows on both ends of the loft. So now those two queen beds have proper windows as well as the tower fans they had before. I'd bet they'd be much more comfortable year-round.

As I said before (I think), La Luna doesn't rest on their laurels. Every year for the past few years they've taken a few weeks out of the low season to close down and do maintenance, repairs, renovations or additions. This year they were replacing the palapa roof on Christopher Columbus, and it was amazing to see. I was one of the last guests, with one night left, so pretty much the minute the young woman in Columbus left, they tore off the roof. I couldn't believe how fast it came off, and how fast the new one went back on! By the time I left the next morning, the new roof was half finished. Really amazing how fast these guys can work. Below is late morning the day she left:

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-nCWGsTx/0/L/i-nCWGsTx-L.jpg

And this is later that afternoon, already the first row of thatching done:

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-7n9kZtK/0/L/i-7n9kZtK-L.jpg

Not the best picture of not the best-looking dish in the world, but I love this stuff. It's called "chicken shit" or something like that:

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-8cpwTt9/0/L/i-8cpwTt9-L.jpg

Just kidding, it's a traditional Mayan dip made from pumpkin seeds called Xikilpax (I'm pretty sure that's right). Looks like baby poo, but really delicious and extremely filling.

A few more of La Luna's margaritas, bit of a nap, and I texted with Brian about dinner, trying one more time for Zamas. It was an incredibly beautiful sunset, walking north along the beach.

I'm not sure if I posted this one earlier or not. It's hard to pick through the many pictures I took on that walk, but I do like this one.

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-hgQLtT7/0/L/i-hgQLtT7-L.jpg

The water was like mercury, the sky a beautiful shade of I don't even know what to call it. Almost a lavender where it wasn't blue.


http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-Q2bmCXF/0/L/i-Q2bmCXF-L.jpg

A few more pics of The Sand Bar. This stone wall is right on the beach road (Sand Bar is just to the north of El Pez and the police checkpoint), some cool details like the words Sand Bar (or is it "Sandbar"?) in blue tile inset into the limestone and fun Caribbean signs.

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-XBmZ27s/0/L/i-XBmZ27s-L.jpg

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-tHHvtQD/0/L/i-tHHvtQD-L.jpg

This place is seriously what I'd have always wanted to open in Tulum if I could. Even though it's "created", it's still got such a fun sensibility, kind of a cross between Playa and Key West. Again, you have to ask in advance what kind of music they'll be playing each night (actually, the sign out front usually advertises it), since sometimes they do play techno with a DJ, but both nights I hung out here it was just old reggae on the sound system.

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-bkFTRWw/0/L/i-bkFTRWw-L.jpg

Across the street I took a quick peek inside the MexiDivers shack, mostly because I wanted to remind myself what kind of equipment they offer. Pretty comprehensive, including fishing gear:

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-DxQ2t8J/0/L/i-DxQ2t8J-L.jpg


Met up with Brian (I'm telling you, the guy is a great dinner companion--I love eating with fellow foodies!) at Zamas and we were happy to find the main kitchen had reopened, so the menu was ours. Of course, we already had pizza on the mind, so Brian chose pizza, which was awesome, and I chose the spagetti carbonara which I've had several times before. It was even better this time than I remember it, which is a tall order. Yum!


http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-f9cDjkR/0/L/i-f9cDjkR-L.jpg

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-dC66fbp/0/L/i-dC66fbp-L.jpg


My God I ate well this trip! I can't think of a single disappointing meal, to be honest.

We hit the Sandbar again for after-dinner drinks, great chat with our waiter as well. My last night in country, so I'm pretty sad in a way, but it's been a wonderful trip so I go to sleep very happy and satisfied.

[sparklegem]

Oh Beachreader, you are making me so hungry with all of your delicious food photos!! I love reading your trip reports and seeing all of your photos! The Sand Bar (or Sandbar) looks like a very fun place. We will definitely have to check it out. What a terrific last night you had!

[minniemex]

I thought the same thing when you posted this picture ~ I thought the silver fish that are so prevalent in the water.

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-RCDDWKx/0/L/i-RCDDWKx-L.jpg


How were the mossies at SandBar? I am hoping not a problem but I still have problems with the mossies at Zama's and they are right on the ocean too.

[minniemex]

Holy buckaroos! YOur second ticker says only 37 days!! How rough a life is that? Just fresh off of a trip and ready to return in just over a month. :wave:;)

[beachreader]

Not exactly fresh off a trip, just fresh off actually writing a trip report!

And I didn't really have a problem with the skeeters at Sandbar, but I'm not quite as delicious as you are. I'm sure you don't go anywhere without a bottle of repellant, no?

[tbpeaceful]

Oh Beachreader ~ can I just tell you that reading your TR this time is sweet agony? Drooling over the food, needing to see that beach for myself, and the changes that you are talking about on the food scene ...... oh so nice! Good wine! In Mexico?
Your new camera is obviously an incredibly wonderful little device. The foodie pics were driving me to total starvation today.
Thank you. I hope to see you on the beach ..... peace ~ T.

forgot to add ~ the chicken *hit looks fabulous! :p

[beachreader]

Thanks, TB! I was so happy with my camera. The flash is just so much friendlier than on my old camera, doesn't wash everything out. As for everything else, I left it on the "Idiot Auto" setting most of the time and it all just worked out!

[minniemex]

And I didn't really have a problem with the skeeters at Sandbar, but I'm not quite as delicious as you are. I'm sure you don't go anywhere without a bottle of repellant, no?

Nope, never leave with less than 2 bottles. :eek:

[sparklegem]

Minnie, with your mosquito experience, what type of repellent do you recommend?

[Lynnette]

Fabulous food shots, Fran!! All of your pics are wonderful. It's not just the camera....you've got a great eye.

[beachreader]

Thanks, Lynne, I really appreciate that. I used to do a bit of photography in school and after, even got paid for it for a short time. I'd just gotten lazy in keeping up with technology and equipment and all that. I'm just very happy that this new camera has caught me up so I'm not embarrassed about the blurriness, darkness or over-brightness of the nighttime images, so different from what I saw in my head.

I think Mayaflya or Windy put it this way: "what you see is what you get", and that's all I've ever asked from a camera.

[beachreader]

OK, my last day!

I was up early enough that my flash actually went off by accident on the first sunrise pic:

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-zmnL9VN/0/L/i-zmnL9VN-L.jpg

Oops.

A few more random shots around the property before I went back in to finish packing.

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-Mqs93VN/0/L/i-Mqs93VN-L.jpg

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-4ZJ4DVB/0/L/i-4ZJ4DVB-L.jpg

Someone left the light on up at Marrakech, hope it wasn't me! The lower left shows how far they got on the Columbus roof the day before.

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-RnFcGwn/0/L/i-RnFcGwn-L.jpg

I love how the light makes this new palapa look like it's multi-colored:


http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-TxT8bXx/0/L/i-TxT8bXx-L.jpg


http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-b33nC4p/0/L/i-b33nC4p-L.jpg

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-fHzNc65/0/L/i-fHzNc65-L.jpg

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-7BSDXM6/0/L/i-7BSDXM6-L.jpg

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-KD4HX7T/0/L/i-KD4HX7T-L.jpg

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-q3hkQCm/0/L/i-q3hkQCm-L.jpg

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-RKwMfnS/0/L/i-RKwMfnS-L.jpg

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-j4zx9XM/0/L/i-j4zx9XM-L.jpg


Well, that's pretty much it. The trip back to the airport was smooth and uneventful, except that my driver got pulled over just after turning onto 307 north. He hadn't done anything unusual, but he had moved to the left so his tire wouldn't have to hit the big tope that's there. Apparently that's illegal! Did you guys know that? He didn't do anything dangerous, just moved over a few feet. Bummer for him, but I tipped him a bit more at the end to help cover it (I noticed, when he went out to meet the cop with his paperwork, he also brought a 50 peso note with him, so I guess even the locals get hit up).

I met up with Chuck and Lainie at the airport for some nice, if tired, conversation and a decent lunch at Margaritaville. Smooth flight home, even got to bed at a reasonable hour.

I do love Cabanas La Luna. I always feel like home when I'm here; can't wait to see the new Robinson Crusoe next time I'm down.

Hasta luego!

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-6sfHM3b/0/L/i-6sfHM3b-L.jpg

[susan]

Thanks BR. Great report as always.

[Westybchbum]

Fran, your TRs always captivate me. We have you to thank for the discovery of Sandbar, just wish we had been there at the same time! I love that we can still discover new fun things despite how often or not we get down there. I am so happy we bumped into you several times and really enjoyed texting throughout our trip!

I am personally grateful for you as you always bring a new view every time you are there and the detail and passion you share are always felt! Til next time my friend but lets not wait til Tulum.... Who's up for. NYC tuluminary meet up!?

[tbpeaceful]

Beachreader, your trip reports are always so full of interesting news. Thanks so much for making such an effort to keep us informed.

I especially love this chair

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-KD4HX7T/0/L/i-KD4HX7T-L.jpg

... it reminds me of this ad for a resort. I found it so dramatic.

http://peacenjoy.smugmug.com/photos/i-DXhSNbq/0/M/i-DXhSNbq-M.jpg

... and not too far off for Tulum. :)

[minniemex]

Why do I always get hungry reading your TR's?? Besos to ya chica, thanks again for another great trip report.

I am in love with this picture ~

http://beachreader.smugmug.com/photos/i-6sfHM3b/0/L/i-6sfHM3b-L.jpg

[mayaflya]

BR,

I'm with Lynette...those are amazingly beautiful shots! You and your new camera make a great team! There are a lot of things that keep me coming back to this board, but the overarching element is quality. Tulum.info has the best information, the best writing, the best photos, the best people of any site I have ever spent any time on...and it just keeps getting better!

Thanks for your report and for the time you give to this community. I know it is a labor of love, but this place wouldn't be half of what it is without you! (and you just keep getting better!)

[beachreader]

Aw, Maya, that's so sweet, thanks!

TB, that poor model! To be naked in one of those chairs, with no cushion underneath? Yikes, must have been torture.

And I love the way those chairs look too, they're very photogenic. I personally dont find them comfortable, though. Even with the cushion underneath, the back is really hard and I don't like my feet to dangle, but if you're the curling-up kind they may be perfect. I think Phyllis liked sitting in that very chair! Me, I'm an Adirondack chair type, another reason why I love La Luna so much. I can sit in an Adirondack chair in the sand for hours on end!

[jimontheriver]

Got me thinking it is time to start spending part of Playa trip in the Tulum area. Problem is my friend Jimionthelake has a grwat condo about 4 bocks from the beach in Playa we have been staying at. We are going down in about 4 weeks for 14 night and plan on going to Isla for a night or 2 then might spend a night in Punta Allen, if not there maybe Tulum. Looking forward to your TR on Holbox. Will you post it here? I don't read the Tulum forum much but I can see I need to and thank for your TR. Jim

[beachreader]

Hi, Jim, welcome back to the board. I will certainly write a TR about our trip to Holbox, though I never seem to find time to take as many pictures when I'm traveling with friends, especially of the food. We just start talking and eating and I just forget! I won't be back until 12/12, though, and that's a busy time at work, so I don't know if it'll be done by the time you want it, but I'll try. :)

[TheWindyCity]

Got to say that your photos are really stunning...there are too many to choose. Knowing what you went through on previous trips with your cameras and the disappointments you expressed. But wow, you really captured Tulum once again and gave us all great ideas. Alice and I are kicking around some kind of trip for next year, so thanks for the great beach raiding and reporting.

Do you ever buy mol'e from the San Fran to take home? That is one little thing we miss the most from our last trip to Tulum was the mol'e paste from the market....we couldn't even find it on the Pacific side. I wonder if we would have a hard time in Customs once we are home. We almost did last time due to the agent's ignorance.

[beachreader]

I did bring the mole home once, I think after you and Alice had done it. It was great, need to do that again sometime.

Glad you liked the report and are considering a return trip. Soon, I hope!

[patmex]

Hey Windy! I'm in Tulum now and would be glad to bring some mole home and ship it off to you. Any particular favorite?

[DougSR]

Superb mix of beach, hotels, foliage. Darn. I'm looking at my iPhone pics and my waterproof camera pics this morning and feeling a bit jealous. You have to understand that when I was there anything that wasn't tied down was taken in. They were recovering nicely Saturday but hanging chairs and fancy artsy things, even the OM chair was gone for a while. Still, those are great shots.

[debski]

great report...............great pics!!!! The camera didn't do all the work, your eye is fabulous!!!

[beachreader]

Well, hello there, Debski! Kind of hoping we'll see a bit more TR from you? Maybe? You know I'm just craving more pics and info!

[debski]

Well, hello there, Debski! Kind of hoping we'll see a bit more TR from you? Maybe? You know I'm just craving more pics and info!

Ask away beachreader. glad to help if I can!!!!

[TheWindyCity]

Hey Windy! I'm in Tulum now and would be glad to bring some mole home and ship it off to you. Any particular favorite?

Yikes! How did I miss this!! Negra or Rojo is fine...anything from the bins like this:

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x216/TheWindyCity/Tulum2008/2Tulum2008/IMGP5229.jpg

[beachreader]

Just bumping this up for Luuk, if he comes to see it.