A somewhat different relationship with Tulum!

[pattyayers]

Hola todos! I just discovered this forum. After waiting for many years, I finally visited Tulum last winter. I was there for 5 weeks, and I absolutely loved and adored the place. Since I got back "home" to North Carolina, I have been diligently planning to return to Tulum, this time for MUCH LONGER!

My experience there was a lot different than most of what I read on this forum. I'm a 51-year-old woman, and I went by myself. I didn't stay in any luxury hotels, but in simple places in town, and didn't spend much time doing typical tourist stuff. The ruins at Tulum were cool, but I would much rather spend a few hours riding my bike around on the back streets of town just looking and listening to everything - or swimming in that luscious green-blue water at the beach. For me, the beach and town were all I needed, most days. Between the mind-blowing loveliness of the beach and the joyful eating and music and people in town, I was a happy, happy woman.

I took a couple of small side-trips during my five weeks - by bus to the ruins at Coba - and by bike to several different cenotes near Tulum to swim.

But the true joy in it for me was just taking each day slowly, thoroughly enjoying the unbelievably perfect weather, the fascinating cultures, the food, and best of all, the people I met.

I stayed at a hostel/hotel in town for most of my time in Tulum, a wonderful place called Rancho Tranquilo. I made great friends there, many of them semi-locals, people like myself who spend big chunks of their year in Tulum. Highly recommended for the those who are content with a clean, safe cabaña with shared kitchen and bathrooms (about $30 US a night).

I can hardly shut up about Tulum, so thought I might as well run off at the mouth on this forum a little. I can't wait to go back - about 8 weeks now, unless I just bolt sooner. This winter I'm planning to spend 3-4 months there, rent an apartment and continue to do my (entirely Internet-and-phone-based) work. I can't afford not to work, so I'm going to try out a working trip. I figure a few hours a day on the computer and telephone will be OK if I can saddle up my bike and roll out to the beach for the afternoon and spend the evening dancing to Afro-Cuban reggae under the stars.

Thanks for letting me join your forum, and for all the useful info here. I look forward to discussing the more backpacker/vagabond-style aspects of being in Tulum with others.

Su amiga,
Patty

[minniemex]

http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k83/Minniemex/Avitars/welcome.gif to the board pattyayers!!

Hopefully you can share your experiences here with us!!

I am envious of the amount of time you got and are going to get in Tulum.

[beachreader]

Hi PattyAyers! Can you share some pictures and further info on Rancho Tranquilo? I feel like I've heard of this place before. Where is it in town?

And here's the big question: what do you do that's entirely internet-and-phone-based that you can work from down there? And can I come with you and do it too? :D:cool:

[pattyayers]

http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k83/Minniemex/Avitars/welcome.gif to the board pattyayers!!

Hopefully you can share your experiences here with us!!



Thank you, "Minniemex". :-)

Patty

[pattyayers]

Hi PattyAyers! Can you share some pictures and further info on Rancho Tranquilo? I feel like I've heard of this place before. Where is it in town?

And here's the big question: what do you do that's entirely internet-and-phone-based that you can work from down there? And can I come with you and do it too? :D:cool:

Hey "Beachreader",

Sure - Rancho Tranquilo is on the Avenue in town (307), on the north side of the street, at the end of the commercial section of town. It's not far from the more famous hostel, The Weary Traveller. It was a funny place; there were some of the typical young backpackers, but also a lot of people a little older. It's owned and run by an American named Pepe and his small staff of Mexicans. There's a dormitory-style room, apartments, and cabanas, shared bathrooms and a big communal kitchen and living room. I loved staying there and plan to go back at least to say hello.

This photo (http://picasaweb.google.com/pattyayers/MexicoJanuaryFebruary2008#5167683037868723602) - and about the next 23 - are all of Rancho Tranquilo, including a bunch of shots of Tulum pueblo from the roof of the building.

All of the rest of the photos in that Picasa album (400 of them) are of Tulum too!

And this is a kind of travelogue I patched together from the emails I sent out during that time.
EDITED on 26 Oct 2008 to update URL: Travelogue (http://thepattysite.com/tulum/emails-from-tulum.htm)

Thanks for asking.

Oh, as to my work - I'm a freelance web developer (I'm sure you know what that is) and virtual assistant (I do back-office administrative work for clients from my own location). I've spent a couple of years working on tweaking my jobs so that I *can* take them on the road, for just this purpose! :-)

Patty

[pattyayers]

Here's a satellite photo of Tulum showing the location of Rancho Tranquilo (the red star).

http://pattyayers.com/photos/Tulum-Rancho-Tranquilo.jpg

Patty

[beachreader]

Thanks! I like the pics of Rancho Tranquilo (well, I like all the other pics too), seems like a pretty cool place.

Do you have contact info for them? Might be nice to include it here on this thread so people searching will find it.

Sounds like you had a really cool trip, hope you can work it out to make that longer stay work as well!

[minniemex]

Looked at your pictures Pattyayers ~ absolutely wonderful!! So many places I recognized!! Haven't had time to read your travelogue but will.

Would you mind if I moved this over to the "trip report" category of this forum?? I think alot more people would find and read it. They wouldn't expect to find it in the introductions section.

[Margoinmexico]

You go girl, that's the Tulum I love too. :sun:

BTW Rancho Tranquilo is next to my Vulcanizadora (tire repair guy) Been spending too much time there....maybe I should just get a room!

I do most of my shopping on those back streets, know and love lots of people there. I'd actually rather have a taco at my favorite taco stand than just about anything else. And it is not on 307 or the beach! :burp: (oh no, not again! )

m:boat:

[Gale in KY]

Welcome Patty! You are in good company here..there are several of us "gals" who travel solo on the forum. Beachreader, Kimba, myself to name a few.
My first solo to Mexico was in 2005, three glorious weeks of exploring the off the beaten path places, enjoying the company of locals and just relaxing and rejuvinating.
It's a very unique experience...and a quite wonderful one.

[pattyayers]

Thanks! I like the pics of Rancho Tranquilo ...Do you have contact info for them?

Sure. It's Av. Tulum 86, 300 meters south from the ADO bus station. Telephone: 984-871-2784.

Patty

[pattyayers]

Looked at your pictures Pattyayers ~ absolutely wonderful!! So many places I recognized!! Haven't had time to read your travelogue but will.

Would you mind if I moved this over to the "trip report" category of this forum?? I think alot more people would find and read it. They wouldn't expect to find it in the introductions section.

Sure, that'd be fine. I'm so glad you liked my photos! The travelogue is just a collection of rambling emails, but might be interesting to those infatuated with Tulum. :-)

Patty

[pattyayers]

Welcome Patty! You are in good company here..there are several of us "gals" who travel solo on the forum. Beachreader, Kimba, myself to name a few.
My first solo to Mexico was in 2005, three glorious weeks of exploring the off the beaten path places, enjoying the company of locals and just relaxing and rejuvinating.
It's a very unique experience...and a quite wonderful one.

Thank you, Gale! Are there any other places in Mexico you really liked that you wouldn't mind mentioning? I'd love to see a little more of Mexico this winter. I've almost never traveled by myself, but I'm about to get used to it!

Patty

[minniemex]

I'm so glad you liked my photos! The travelogue is just a collection of rambling emails, but might be interesting to those infatuated with Tulum. :-)

Patty

I think there are a few of us on the forum who fit that description:p

[PhyllisB]

I think there are a few of us on the forum who fit that description:p

Haha! I was going to say the same thing! :D :D :D

Welcome, Patty! So glad you're here. I'll be great to have you with us to share your expertise & travel experiences!!!!

[pattyayers]

Thanks very much, Phyllis!

Patty


Haha! I was going to say the same thing! :D :D :D

Welcome, Patty! So glad you're here. I'll be great to have you with us to share your expertise & travel experiences!!!!

[Libelula]

Hi Patty!

I have stayed at Rancho Tranquilo before. I loved it, however there was a problem with semi's stopping and sitting idle for hours. Just the annoying diesel hum all night. Please tell me the truck drivers can't do that anymore. I was pleased to hear Pepe still owns it. He built it from the ground up while living with his whole family in a van in back. Hard times I am sure. I too love the energy of town and wanderng the back streets and seeing the real lives of the people that live there. And the Tulum beaches are heavenly. I would give anything to spend several months there. Where are you planning on staying this next time? Do you have anything lined up?

[pattyayers]

Hi Patty!

I have stayed at Rancho Tranquilo before. I loved it, however there was a problem with semi's stopping and sitting idle for hours. Just the annoying diesel hum all night. Please tell me the truck drivers can't do that anymore. I was pleased to hear Pepe still owns it. He built it from the ground up while living with his whole family in a van in back. Hard times I am sure. I too love the energy of town and wanderng the back streets and seeing the real lives of the people that live there. And the Tulum beaches are heavenly. I would give anything to spend several months there. Where are you planning on staying this next time? Do you have anything lined up?

Hi Libelula!

How cool to hear about Pepe and Rancho Tranquilo back in the day. There was plenty of truck noise at night, but I don't think they were idling, but rather just grinding their gears as they headed out of town. The bar across the street was also quite noisy. I used earplugs a lot! Pepe and his wife now have a beautiful apartment upstairs in the main building at the back of the lot, so I think things are much better for them now. He seemed to be a pretty happy man.

It's great to hear from someone who enjoys the town and people the way I do, as well as those unbelievable beaches. My plan is to land at Rancho Tranquilo and then go apartment-hunting. I'm told that it shouldn't be a problem to find a monthly rental at a good price if I arrive before Christmas.

I'm pretty blessed to be able to do this, but it isn't because I'm independently wealthy or anything. Far from it! My work is all over the Internet - web design and off-site administrative assistance - so I plan to work as usual from Tulum. It's an experiment, and I don't know for sure how well it will work, but it seems to make sense, and I'm going to try it! I own a condo here in North Carolina, but will have housemates to help cover most of my expenses here. So that's my plan.

Thanks for writing!

Patty

[Libelula]

You must be getting excited!! It sounds like you are getting closer to leaving!! yippeee! I heard there has been a lot of rain recently. Hopefully that will taper off. Did you get to see Pepe's kids? I just wondered if they were still around or if they were in the states. Robert, Kai and I can't remember the middle ones name right now. Robert was so smart and so friendly. He used to come and help us with Spay/Neuter clinics. Great kid.

You are so fortunate to be able to go on this journey. I wish you the best!! hope to hear reports from you "in the field."

:wave:

[pattyayers]

You must be getting excited!! It sounds like you are getting closer to leaving!! yippeee! I heard there has been a lot of rain recently. Hopefully that will taper off. Did you get to see Pepe's kids? I just wondered if they were still around or if they were in the states. Robert, Kai and I can't remember the middle ones name right now. Robert was so smart and so friendly. He used to come and help us with Spay/Neuter clinics. Great kid.

You are so fortunate to be able to go on this journey. I wish you the best!! hope to hear reports from you "in the field."

:wave:

Yes, getting excited, and also a little nervous, I guess, since I've really never done anything like this before, and I'll be travelling alone. I did get to see one of Pepe's kids, a boy about 10, I think. The wife or longtime partner he is with now might be his second, and not the one you remember? She's a youngish Mexican woman.

Thanks very much for your encouragement; you're right, I'm really lucky and blessed to be able to do this. When might you be back in Tulum yourself?

Patty

[BP.]

I love, love, love your bold plan, Patty. Good Luck with your experiment. Please keep us informed. I've got a seasonal business, and now I've got my girlfriend (Pattie) re-careering into a job as a soon-to-be RN. The hospital she is working at allows RN's to take up to a 3 month (unpaid, but so what) sabbatical each year without loss of benefits, seniority, etc. How cool is that? Then perhaps we would like to do the temporary re-lo thing like you and the folks you talked about. But, hey, it really sounds like you laid the groundwork to realize your dream. Very impressive!! :eat-drink:

BTW, you asked about other cool spots in MX. Come on down to Xcalak. We are there 15-23 Dec. Couple others there like you- livin' the dream.

Cheers,
Barb

[Margoinmexico]

:wave:Hi Patty again!

Keep in touch, email is best for me.......we'll do lunch!!!!:p

I bet we know some people in common....I have many local families and do most of my shopping not on 307! :D:p:D

Living other peoples dreams is a big responsibility! We've got to get together and compare notes!:o:p:sun::p:o

[pattyayers]

I love, love, love your bold plan, Patty. ... perhaps we would like to do the temporary re-lo thing like you and the folks you talked about. ...

Come on down to Xcalak. We are there 15-23 Dec. Couple others there like you- livin' the dream.

Cheers,
Barb

Hi Barb,

It was great to get up this morning and see this message, since, like any maker of bold plans, I'm having some chickenshit moments, if you'll pardon the expression.

I would love to meet you and Pattie and will definitely try and do that. I'll send you a private message to exchange contact info, if you don't mind.

I encourage you to try to pull off a longer adventure too! I believe you'll find out if it's "a path with a heart" for you.

Best,

Patty

[Libelula]

Ah yes...Mary was Pepe's first wife. They had split up several years ago and I thought by your post they must be back together. A 10 year old sounds like the middle one and his name still escapes me! Lucky kids!!

I simply can't wait to hear your reports. I wish I could do an extended stay sometime. I have a place to stay and everything!


Have fun!!

[pattyayers]

Ah yes...Mary was Pepe's first wife. They had split up several years ago and I thought by your post they must be back together. A 10 year old sounds like the middle one and his name still escapes me! Lucky kids!!

I simply can't wait to hear your reports. I wish I could do an extended stay sometime. I have a place to stay and everything!


Have fun!!

Have you read The Four-Hour Work Week by Timothy Ferriss yet? That's what started this all for me. It was really inspiring, both about (1) figuring out what you actually want to do in life, and (2) systematically adjusting your life so that you can do those things. He's quite a character and you (like me) may not relate to everything he's into, but his basic message is really excellent.

I'll try and post photos and videos and stories on my blog once I get down there (which is http://pattyayers.blogspot.com/, but I'll post back here then with a reminder).

Cheers,
Patty

[sparklegem]

Hi Patty,

Super pictures! Thank you for posting the link. I am just getting started reading your Emails from Tulum. They are very interesting, too!

It is wonderful that you are about to head back down for an extended stay. I spent a year there traveling by myself, walking around, going to the beach and taking little trips down to Guatemala and Belize. That was over twenty years ago (and your pictures make Tulum look like a big city compared to what Playa was back then!). I love the rhythum of the days there when you are living there. I have been back many times since but it is different when you only have a week or two or three.

I will try to get a copy of the book that you reccomended. I am at least six years away from being able to leave for an extended time but I guess that it might help me start lining things up in that direction.

I am looking forward to reading your Email page and hearing about your new adventures!

Bon Voyage!
Gem

[pattyayers]

Hi Patty,

Super pictures! Thank you for posting the link. I am just getting started reading your Emails from Tulum. They are very interesting, too!

It is wonderful that you are about to head back down for an extended stay. I spent a year there traveling by myself, walking around, going to the beach and taking little trips down to Guatemala and Belize. That was over twenty years ago (and your pictures make Tulum look like a big city compared to what Playa was back then!). I love the rhythum of the days there when you are living there. I have been back many times since but it is different when you only have a week or two or three.

I will try to get a copy of the book that you reccomended. I am at least six years away from being able to leave for an extended time but I guess that it might help me start lining things up in that direction.

I am looking forward to reading your Email page and hearing about your new adventures!

Bon Voyage!
Gem

Hi Gem,

Thanks so much for the good energy! I really do encourage you to read that book, even just the first 4 or 5 chapters (maybe the library has it?)

I'll definitely stay in touch with this forum while I'm Down There.

(Wow, Playa smaller than Tulum is now.. amazing!)

Cheers,

Patty

[kimba]

Hey Patty!

You travel like I do - although I didn't get to spend anywhere near the amount of time in Tulum that I would have liked to last time. My last trip to the Yucatan was just a splash two weeks before going to spend a few months in Europe.

This time though, I will be spending some time there. Probably not all in one place, but moving around between Tulum, Valladolid, Merida and Oaxaca. I hope.

I also do webdev, and also take my gear with me to work on projects. I have a couple of photo projects I'm going to work on my next trip down there.

You asked a bunch of posts back if there were other places in Mexico to visit solo ... yep, there are lots. But I've only been to one other so far (this winter will change that). In 1998 I went solo to Baja to see the whales. It was quite an experience. I flew into Loreto and went over to Puerto Lopez Mateos by bus. (Only 60 miles). Baja is like the Wild West of Mexico. Incredible landscapes.

Tulum is a very special place. I hope things work out for you this winter!

[pattyayers]

Hey Patty!

You travel like I do - although I didn't get to spend anywhere near the amount of time in Tulum that I would have liked to last time. My last trip to the Yucatan was just a splash two weeks before going to spend a few months in Europe.

This time though, I will be spending some time there. Probably not all in one place, but moving around between Tulum, Valladolid, Merida and Oaxaca. I hope.

I also do webdev, and also take my gear with me to work on projects. I have a couple of photo projects I'm going to work on my next trip down there.

You asked a bunch of posts back if there were other places in Mexico to visit solo ... yep, there are lots. But I've only been to one other so far (this winter will change that). In 1998 I went solo to Baja to see the whales. It was quite an experience. I flew into Loreto and went over to Puerto Lopez Mateos by bus. (Only 60 miles). Baja is like the Wild West of Mexico. Incredible landscapes.

Tulum is a very special place. I hope things work out for you this winter!

Thanks, Kimba! Enjoy your HTML! :-)

Patty

[wildflower]

What a great post, and pictures... I so much enjoyed your Mexico experience! I think you should maybe start writing a book... what a great way to spend time at the beach....

[pattyayers]

What a great post, and pictures... I so much enjoyed your Mexico experience! I think you should maybe start writing a book... what a great way to spend time at the beach....

Thank you so much! I was thinking about trying to keep a regular blog during my upcoming (leaving in 11 days!) trip. If I do, I'll definitely let this forum know about it.

I appreciate the encouragement! :-) This forum has been a great find.

Patty

[wildflower]

Well Patty, we might have to have a girls day out... lunch in Tulum!

I will be down in two weeks... for only 12 days, but I am also, am working on "my plan" freeing myself from a lot of STUFF that keeps me here in New England.

[pattyayers]

Well Patty, we might have to have a girls day out... lunch in Tulum!

I will be down in two weeks... for only 12 days, but I am also, am working on "my plan" freeing myself from a lot of STUFF that keeps me here in New England.

Sure! Send me a private message with your name and email address if you like, and I'll do the same.

I lived on Martha's Vineyard for 15 years, by the way, so a fellow New Englander too. :-)

Patty

[BP.]

Ticker's lookin' good, Patty! You got a busy 10 days ahead, or what???

Wildflower, get a ticker, get on the calendar, where ya stayin'?

Happy packing, Ladies!!

Cheers, Barb

[pattyayers]

Ticker's lookin' good, Patty! You got a busy 10 days ahead, or what???

...
Happy packing, Ladies!!

Cheers, Barb

Busy, but I've been preparing relentlessly for 9 months now (sort of like a pregnancy, I guess!) so it's not actually a big crunch right now.

Thanks for the good energy, Barb!

Patty

[wildflower]

Ticker's lookin' good, Patty! You got a busy 10 days ahead, or what???

Wildflower, get a ticker, get on the calendar, where ya stayin'?

Happy packing, Ladies!!

Cheers, Barb

Thanks Barb! I am working on the ticker thingy....
Dos Ceibas for one night... but mostly in Playa with day trips to check out next years more southern accommodations:cool:

I think the Pueblo of Tulum sounds great!

As for packing, I always bring way too much crap, this year I am just bringing a good pair of shoes, and shorts, I never use half of the other stuff anyway!!!!
http://www.playa.info/countdown1228366800b4.png (http://www.playa.info/playa-del-carmen-forum/)

[pattyayers]

... this year I am just bringing a good pair of shoes...

Hot tip from someone who limped around Tulum for two weeks last winter: don't plan to depend upon any shoes that you haven't already worn a lot at home, so that your feet and the shoes are used to each other!

Patty

[wildflower]

Hot tip from someone who limped around Tulum for two weeks last winter: don't plan to depend upon any shoes that you haven't already worn a lot at home, so that your feet and the shoes are used to each other!

Patty

Unfortunately those would be my CLOGS... full of horse poop... I know the first year I came down, OMG did I have blisters... shoes are the MOST important thing on my list...
I was thinking about bringing a blow up raft for just floating on... I can just imagine the sun burn now!

Sorry Patty for hijacking this thread.
http://www.playa.info/countdown1228366800b4.png (http://www.playa.info/playa-del-carmen-forum/)

[BP.]

http://www.playa.info/countdown1228366800b4.png (http://www.playa.info/playa-del-carmen-forum/)



Ticker looks great! As far as the southern beaches & the pueblo- you'll be falling in love!

[wildflower]

Ticker looks great! As far as the southern beaches & the pueblo- you'll be falling in love!


Oh yeah I know it, last year it was Punta Allen that grabbed me! I could spend my whole 12 days there....that is my idea of getting away. I am inching my way down there!

[wildflower]

[I lived on Martha's Vineyard for 15 years, by the way, so a fellow New Englander too. :-)

Patty[/quote]
BTW where did you live on the Vineyard? I know a few folks out there that have horses...Tisbury or West Tisbury can't remember which. Dole was her last name, I can't remember his last name but his first name was Carlo....I think.

[PhyllisB]

I like to think of myself as an honorary New Englander... We were in Boston for about 10 years (96-2006) before we moved back to the midwest to get closer to Kevin's family. I was so bummed, I felt like I had finally learned my way around and then we moved out of town! :D

[wildflower]

I like to think of myself as an honorary New Englander... We were in Boston for about 10 years (96-2006) before we moved back to the midwest to get closer to Kevin's family. I was so bummed, I felt like I had finally learned my way around and then we moved out of town! :D

This is no small feat, as I have lived here all my life and I am not sure I can say that "I know my way around":o

[PhyllisB]

Well, I suppose you're right about that WF! I should say, I mostly knew my way around to the places I tended to go most often! :D Gotta love those old Boston streets.... no rhyme or rhythm, no signs.... wayyyyyyy too many cars for those little streets..... I don't think I've ever seen as many five- or six-way intersections anywhere else I've ever lived. ahh, good times!

[wildflower]

Well, I suppose you're right about that WF! I should say, I mostly knew my way around to the places I tended to go most often! :D Gotta love those old Boston streets.... no rhyme or rhythm, no signs.... wayyyyyyy too many cars for those little streets..... I don't think I've ever seen as many five- or six-way intersections anywhere else I've ever lived. ahh, good times!


Phyllis, it gets so bad around here, I dread going into the city now! I used to work and live down town Boston and I can't imagine doing that scene now... glad to be a country girl!

[NWCreoleLady]

Wow Patty! Great email trip report and pictures. We are just starting to spend more time in Tulum and ours have been visits more of necessity (groceries, hardware stores, lumberyards) as we get settled in our Chemuyil casita. It is an amazing and busy little place. We'll be back in just a week and I can't wait to discover some of places that you have. You are very lucky to be able to work the way you do!I'm sure you are well on your way to enjoying that nice, long visit!

[pattyayers]

Wow Patty! Great email trip report and pictures. We are just starting to spend more time in Tulum and ours have been visits more of necessity (groceries, hardware stores, lumberyards) as we get settled in our Chemuyil casita. It is an amazing and busy little place. We'll be back in just a week and I can't wait to discover some of places that you have. You are very lucky to be able to work the way you do!I'm sure you are well on your way to enjoying that nice, long visit!

Thank you "NW"!

Patty