Bahia Soliman and Day-tripping Tulum

[mayaflya]

With the new protocol for trip reports, I’m going to drop the day by day reporting and try reporting in categories. The comments (and hijacks!) stretch out the information to the point where you lose the continuity, anyway, so I’m thinking the best strategy is to clump similar information together, and maybe link in a separate thread for general information like my restaurant review for Cetli.

An overview of the week is in order, however. The wife and I returned last night, after midnight, from our third visit to Tulum…..our spring break trip falling between Palm Sunday and Good Friday.

We stayed at Soliman Bay, and day tripped into Tulum, with other side trips to snorkel the Yal Ku lagoon in Akumal, a morning exploring the Coba ruins, massage/spa treatments at the Maya Spa, and several memorable meals. I spent a morning, while the wife shopped, walking the back streets of Tulum to confirm and photograph many of the sites noted on the Pueblo Map…I’m mulling over how to redo this to make it more accessible directly from this forum.

Our main agenda, however, was to lay out in the sun, drink cervezas and margaritas, and tan our winter white into summer gold…

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It was apocalyptically windy almost the whole week, but we had no storms or rain. Our hosts blamed us for bringing the wind down with us from Kansas (Kanza: people of the south wind), and said that it was almost as bad as during hurricane Dean.

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When the wind quit, it died completely, and our last morning dawned with a rare Caribbean fog….strange weather.

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I knew that Holy Week is a busy time in Mexico, but I was not completely prepared for the crowds we encountered at various places. The Tulum Pueblo was particularly busy, with traffic clogging the streets, mostly in the late afternoon and evening hours. The San Francisco market was almost impossible to get into, and the lines long to check out. It was a real relief to slip back to the quiet and privacy of Bahia Soliman.

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to be continued…

[HAWKEYE]

Great start.:)
Craig.

[Jana]

Welcome back! Your picture of the fog is somewhat eerie and unreal - what odd weather you had (unfortunately for you!). Looking forward to more report. :)

[beachreader]

Beautiful pics, thanks, Maya, and welcome home!

[mayaflya]

Our accomodations on Soliman Bay included a full breakfast every morning, including pastries, fruit, juice, coffee, and a hot breakfast entree...typical example:

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As a result, we usually only ate one other meal, a late lunch or an early dinner. With the relocation of Oscar y Lalo’s to the highway, there are currently no restaurants on the bay itself. The first morning, after breakfast, we made a trip into Tulum to buy supplies and hit the ATM for pesos. We found Lulu’s Tortilleria (thanks Windy!) and bought a thick stack of fresh warm tortillas for 20 pesos....the pic shows the stack unwrapped on the seat of the car, as we were snacking on them as we ran the rest of our errands:

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We then hit the Cochinita Pibil stand by the bus station:

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and the San Fransisco for avocados, cilantro, fruit, snacks and limes....tequila, cervezas, and a bottle of the local version of Triple Sec rounded out the supplies for the week. With a mini fridge back in our room, we had all we needed for staving off the munchies between meals.

Our evening meals included a dinner at the new Oscar y Lalo’s across the highway from the Soliman Bay turn-off. I have to say that it was better than I expected, but I think I was wanting to not like the experience...I was a littled PO’d about the sell out.. The new restaurant is a large half-open palapa set back not quite far enough from the highway to avoid seeing the traffic passing by. As the landscaping matures, this will improve. I had a enchiladas with mole sauce....

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The wife had the mixed seafood ceviche (including the elusive conch)...

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We had a late lunch in Akumal at La Buena Vida after snorkeling at Yal Ku...Guacamole and fish tacos...good

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This post is getting a bit long, so I’ll take a breather, and come back a little later with my two disappointments...and my two raves...

[PhyllisB]

What are you talking about long??? This is great! Keep it coming! :)

[beachreader]

"Long", snort. I really hope you don't think this is long! Mine must drive you nuts!

Love your pics. Is that cheese on top of the guac at Buena Vida? I've never seen it presented like that. And those are gigantic pieces of fish in the tacos! Wow!

[mayaflya]

"Long", snort. I really hope you don't think this is long! Mine must drive you nuts!

Love your pics. Is that cheese on top of the guac at Buena Vida? I've never seen it presented like that. And those are gigantic pieces of fish in the tacos! Wow!

I am usually long winded, but I was needing to take a break to do another little project...multi-tasking on a Sunday, no less, but this work week is going to be a killer and I want to get as much done as I can...

Pics for this trip are a little uneven in quality...I was trading between two cameras..the DSLR and the Olympus...most of the evening food shots are available light with the Olympus...not as sharp as I would like, but I can be more discreet (and not P*** off the wife, who barely tolerates my "just a minute, let me get a picture of that")

Yes, that was cheese...something local, but tasted like fresh mozzarella...really the same kind of cheese that Cetli had on their appetizer tray. Posting part 3 momentarily.

[mayaflya]

First the disappointments. We skipped breakfast at our B&B on Wednesday to make a morning day trip to the Coba ruins. I had enjoyed Windycity’s quest last spring for the perfect huevos moltuenos, and planned to hit the restaurant near Coba where he had found his favorites:

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We got there about 8:30 am, and it looked like they were just opening. “Abierto?”... “si” we sat at patio table, received menus, and both ordered HM’s.....and waited....and waited...and waited. It must have been thirty minutes to get the food, and we were the only diners there. When the food came, it looked like this:

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Not terrible, but definitely not what we were expecting....we both thought the version we made at home last year was much better. It just proves the point, YMMV...

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The other disappointment was an early dinner at Zamas Que Fresco. Again the meal was not bad...it just was not as good we had expected. Zamas has always been our favorite place for breakfast...it just didn’t become our favorite for dinner...grilled fish and shrimp

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The last two meals became our raves, however. We went into the Pueblo Wednesday evening to dine at Cetli, but discovered that they were closed on Wednesdays. We had planned to eat in the Pueblo that night because it was still a bit windy for enjoyable dining on the beach....the wind was not as strong as it had been all day, so we made the decision on the fly to hit the Mayan Grill...we’d eaten there on our first Tulum trip, and enjoyed a unforgettably romantic dinner on the beach under the stars. Could lightning strike twice?

We arrived just at dusk, and again were the only diners there...this time we could enjoy the view:

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We had the seafood platter for two (350 pesos)...grilled fish, calamari, octopus, shrimp and mussels, with grilled vegetables. Bananas flambé for dessert. I could not bear to break the mood with a flash picture...so sorry, no food pictures...

We ate and watched night fall, finishing the meal by candlelight. A nearly full moon was bright on the water... It was our second utterly amazing dining experience there...

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The last rave is, of course, Cetli. A separate thread describes that experience:

http://www.tulum.info/showpost.php?p=19968&postcount=1

We honestly can’t complain about any of meals...they were all at least good...we felt blessed to have saved the best for last....

[mayaflya]

First a digression. We discovered snorkeling on our first visit to Tulum, doing a cenote snorkel tour. I say this to establish that we are absolute neophytes at this. We bought fins and masks and snorkels for our Tulum trip last year, and managed a couple of unguided forays into the shallow waters of Tankah Bay. This summer, we are spending a week on a sailing charter in the Virgin Islands, and our charter captain informed us that we would be snorkeling two or three times a day...

So, I decided to invest in both an underwater digital camera (Olympus) and a prescription snorkel mask (bifocals, no less). We had the camera in hand, but the ordered mask did not arrive....did not arrive...did not arrive...I made several calls, getting assurances that the work was getting expedited. I made my last call on Friday (leaving Saturday)..hoping for word that the mask had shipped...no such luck, but the customer service rep (who was very nice, BTW) said it was done and ready to ship that day. I had ordered it with overnight shipping, but not necessarily Saturday delivery. We discussed this over the phone...and the rep discovered that our town (we are about twenty miles from the major metro area in Kansas) did have Saturday UPS. I said we were leaving for the airport at noon, and she said she would send it guaranteed early morning delivery, and gave me a tracking number.

In some ways, the internet is a wonderful thing, but for someone with Obsessive Compulsive Disorder, a computer and a tracking number can be dangerous combination. I watched as the package left Newark...made it’s way overnight to Springfield, Missouri....then I gave up hope...checked again just out of OCD, and was shocked to see the package show up in Wichita...hope renewed.....but it sat there...and sat there....sure, we have Saturday delivery....but the shipper has to ASK FOR IT!....arrgh...We drove by the UPS facility on our way to the airport... and I waved to my little snorkel mask sitting in a bin somewhere inside that warehouse...Let it go...let it go....

Anyway, back to the trip. With the wind as strong as it was, we decided to try our first snorkel at Yal Ku lagoon, north of Akumal. We made the short drive, paid the 80 peso admission, and hauled our gear through the landscaped pathways to the lagoon.

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Yal Ku is a really beautiful place, but with holy week/spring break combo it was super crowded. Snorkeling was like bumper cars. We enjoyed the experience, and saw more fish than we had in Tankah, but would like to return at a less busy time. After an hour and a half or so, we were done.

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We waited till Thursday afternoon before snorkeling again, as we wanted to try Soliman Bay, and it was just too windy before that. It was, of course, convenient, but the reef was far enough out, that one needed a kayak to get out to the coral. Luckily, our hosts, provided these to their guests.

A word about Connie and Chris, our B&B innkeepers. They are New Yorkers, and Connie (the husband) is very affable, but somewhat frank. The morning we thought we’d like to kayak, we asked him about what we needed to know. He started in by telling us that it was still pretty windy, and “yeah, two people drowned out there last year....and you gotta watch the currents...you get swept out of the bay and you don’t know where you’ll get washed up....and there’s really not that much left anyway after the fish get through with ya...” Okaaaay......can we talk to Chris, please?

Later, when we decided to go out, we found Chris....we inquired as to where to find the paddles and life jackets...she asked “didn’t Connie tell you?” I said no, he just told us about the drownings and the current and getting eaten by fish....”Ahhhh, Jeeeezzz!, I’ll show you where the stuff is!”

Kayaking out to the buoys was pretty easy....but, word of advice...tie the kayak up securely....here’s me almost back from retrieving the first runaway...yep, takes me twice to learn that lesson.

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The reef here was really pretty nice, if we’d had better weather, we’d probably have explored it more.

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next, Coba...

[beachreader]

Sigh. :)

Great pics, as always. I'm so glad you got your underwater camera, sorry about the fancy masks being late for this trip, but I'm sure you'll have great pics from the masks in the Caribbean later in the spring!

[Lynnette]

The Mayan Grill by candlelight is so romantic!!!! We really enjoy snorkeling Soliman. For us the trick is trying to get back into the kayak. :D I'm loving your report...great photos!

[TheWindyCity]

Geez Maya! What took you so long to get this report up...what? 23 hours?? :)

Great start...really loved all the photos. I was really sorry to hear your account of La Pirimide's Huevos Moltulenos....and even worse was the photo...what a mess!! It is a far cry from what we enjoyed on our trip....a day and night difference.

As a refresher...here is what we were treated to in May of '07:
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x216/TheWindyCity/IMGP1282.jpg

And for comparison, from your trip...March of 2008!!

YIKES!

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[mayaflya]

Geez Maya! What took you so long to get this report up...what? 23 hours?? :)

Great start...really loved all the photos. I was really sorry to hear your account of La Pirimide's Huevos Moltulenos....and even worse was the photo...what a mess!! It is a far cry from what we enjoyed on our trip....a day and night difference.
YIKES!

That's why we were disappointed....at least it looks like they are using the same plates....

[mayaflya]

The Mayan Grill by candlelight is so romantic!!!! We really enjoy snorkeling Soliman. For us the trick is trying to get back into the kayak. :D I'm loving your report...great photos!

It wasn't too hard, all you had to do was climb up on the coral........




......just kidding!!!!!! ;-)
We ended up swimming the kayaks back towards where we could touch bottom....and then I boosted the wife up and in....I had tried to climb in earlier..on one of my retrieves..using the method our host suggested...swinging a leg up and rolling in...didn't work for me so I gave it up. It wasn't till I tried just jumping up and onto the kayak that I discovered success...I think it would be easier in a two person kayak, as you'd have someone else to help.

[AdGuy]

It wasn't too hard, all you had to do was climb up on the coral........

......just kidding!!!!!! ;-)

http://smileys.smileycentral.com/cat/23/23_29_132.gif (http://www.smileycentral.com/?partner=ZSzeb001_ZNxmk762YYUS) mayaflya! That reminds me of the advice we give to folks swimming in the springs around here...it's easier to get back in your boat if you wedge your propeller into one of the manatees and use them as a step stool! :)

I'm loving your reports and photos...keep it coming!!

[mayaflya]

I had one goal for my week in Tulum....one thing that I wanted to do, and everything else was optional. And that was to climb the big pyramid at Coba....knowing that they were shutting down this option at the other ruins, I wanted to do this while I still could....something on my “bucket list”....so we planned a day trip to Coba, skipping breakfast to get an early start....and planning on getting those good Huevos Moltuenos at Coba....;-( The highway from Tulum is in very good condition with construction complete all the way to the traffic circle....It is still under construction thru Coba village, requiring a detour thru the side streets to get to the parking lot. We made it directly into the restaurant parking lot, but got bulldozed in before we finished breakfast...we had to wind thru the back alleys to get back out:

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Arriving at the ruins about 9:30am, we still beat the tour buses, got the 45 minute guided tour, which includes the temple group closest to the entrance, including the ball court.

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We rented bikes for the 2km ride to the big pyramid, Nohoch Mul, but the wife soon discovered that her knee (joint replacement last July) was not up to the “high stepping” stance that the short framed bikes required...she switched to the pedal rickshaw...which let her snap pics of me wobbling down the trail on my bike....”honey, look back so I can take your picture......whoa! don’t run into that tree!” She also enjoyed visiting with her mayan driver/pedaler...who I’m sure was happy not to have both of us to push....we were all happy...

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We made it to the base of the pyramid...and I did my best to strike an “Indiana Jones” pose....successful?

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The trip up (and down) was actually easier than I expected....almost anticlimatic...the view was cool though

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And I felt glad to have satisfied my goal

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The wife was a little frustrated that she couldn’t climb the pyramid with me, but I told her that there were three very good reasons for her to stay safely on the ground...one, her knee would never survive the climb...two, she is paralytically afraid of heights.....and three, the gale force winds that we enjoyed on the beach all week were waiting for her just above tree line, even inland at Coba....she allowed as maybe I was right...and enjoyed her rickshaw ride back to the parking lot....

Next... shopping!

[beachreader]

Glad you got your bucket list goal done. I climbed that pyramid a couple of years ago and the going-down part scared me to death. I didn't think it would be that bad, but it took me a long time to get down, so while I understand your wife being disappointed, she really only missed out on being scared peeless.

I am amazed at how fast they do these roads. We hear a lot about "Mexican time", but when it comes to road-building, they blast right along. Really, in the week I was there, they completely redid about half of the pueblo-to-beach road and the beach road all the way past Copal. One day it would be torn up, the next driveable but unpaved, the next, all paved over. Really amazing.

[mayaflya]

Glad you got your bucket list goal done. I climbed that pyramid a couple of years ago and the going-down part scared me to death. I didn't think it would be that bad, but it took me a long time to get down, so while I understand your wife being disappointed, she really only missed out on being scared peeless.

No bathrooms at the pyramid either ;-)

My beachreading for this trip was "Forest of Kings", which I made it halfway through...scholarly, but accessible enough....anyway....

The Maya had an expedited method for descending the pyramid...they would tie an enemy's arms and legs together into a ball, and then "roll" them down....

[DougSR]

I love the snorkeling pics. Can't wait to get some underwater pics in May. But I have to tell you my favorite part of your TR. I laughed out loud at:

"holy week/spring break combo"

Those two activities should NEVER take place at the same time. LOL!

[mayaflya]

After our morning snorkeling Yal ku, and lunch at La Buena Vida, we agreed to make a stop on the way out in Akumal village to do a “little” shopping….here’s where the communication broke down….we had not defined “little”. I was thinking, swing into the Super Chomak and grab all their lime squeezers again (We have a thing for lime squeezers….but that’s getting ahead of the story)…the wife was thinking she could get every souvenir and gift on her list, including something for all of the kids in her class at school.

The other problem was that, while we had enjoyed a very productive/efficient time shopping in Akumal last March, this year, no one seemed to have what we were looking for…..the search dragged on much longer than I had patience for, and I started to do that thing that the wife just hates….hover. We were both a little cross by the time we made it back to Soliman Bay…me particularly, because I felt I had wasted precious beach time with no results.

Twenty five years of marriage does not happen without the partners taking turns being smart…it was the wife’s turn this time…. She said, “let’s talk about what went wrong, and make a better plan for shopping…because, yes, there will be shopping…..with or without you”….as attractive as the last option sounded in the moment…the biggest reason we take these trips is to be together….so we made a new plan for the next day…

We hit the Tulum Pueblo after breakfast on Tuesday, parked the car and synchronized our watches…I gave her the car keys, so that she could offload purchases…I hoisted my notebook and camera….and we both headed off on separate missions….agreeing to rendezvous for drinks in two hours, at the sidewalk café near where we parked the car.

I set out on my expedition to set eyes and lens on all of the back street restaurants that I had been recording on my map…and also to take as many “artsy” shopping pics as I could find…I was happy……the wife was off with her list in the target rich environment of the pueblo…she was happy….and we had a great morning…

I’ll post a separate thread on the restaurant scene, but I wanted to share a few of the shopping pics here:

The usual colorful sights:

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The slightly more bizarre:

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Cheating a bit here, as this shop was on the road to Coba....plug for it though...lovely couple that ran it, he carved, she painted...we bought two for $200 pesos:

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And finally, the lime squeezer....On our first visit to Tulum, we stopped in this little shop and bought a lime squeezer, which we gave away as a gift back home...bought the ONE lime squeezer they had...The next year, we decided to buy more to take home as gifts and went back to this store.....no luck, no squeezers...found some at the Super Chomak in Akumal and bought all three they had....checked Akumal again this time, no squeezers....checked this store..and again, they had ONE. We bought it, but it was much smaller than we liked, more like a key lime squeezer...we needed to replace our’s at home this time around, plus we needed one to use on THIS trip...to make our margaritas on the beach.

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So, we made do for the week, but on our way back to the airport, we made a stop at the Chedrau in PDC...and bought one there, but it was just a little too big....more of a lemon squeezer. On our way back to the car, we noticed a housewares store in the strip of businesses that fronted the parking lot...walking by the store window.....gleaming in stainless steel glory was the perfect lime squeezer....it was Juuuuuussssst riiiiiiiiiight! Never mind that it was 382 pesos!!!! We had to have it.... the lime squeezer of great price....

I did get flagged at airport security trying to carry the thing on the plane....the agent took one look at it’s stainless steel beauty and agreed that when you find one like this, you've got to buy it...

[Lynnette]

These are really fun shots. I like taking pics of shops almost as much as I like shopping in them!! Your lime squeezer story is hilarious!! I'd say you got a great buy....far less than I paid at Williams Sonoma for mine. :)

[beachreader]

Great pics, Maya! Oh how I wish I could find a place for one of those sinks in my house, they're so beautiful!

[TheWindyCity]

NOOOOOOO! Oh God...not Tulum butt cheeks! I was wondering when the tacky souveniers would snake their way into the shops of the Pueblo!

[DougSR]

The pics are great but shopping?!? Yuck! I was merely "along for the ride" when me and the date went shopping last time down. All I could think was there is a freakin' beach 3 miiles away and we are looking at tshirts!!! There was one item that I meant to buy and never got around to it. Can you see me riding down the highway on my Harley wearing one of these bad mammie jammers?

http://www.masksoftheworld.com/images/zpWrestling-a.jpg

[luvthesun]

REALLY great shots!!! I love the jaguar heads!

Glad you got to the top of the pyramid in Coba.. I only made it halfway.

Don't worry about not getting your mask on time...you'll get plenty use out of it.... you are going to LOVE the snorkeling in the Virgin Islands!!!! One of my favorite places to snorkel!

Great report!

[TheWindyCity]

The pics are great but shopping?!? Yuck! I was merely "along for the ride" when me and the date went shopping last time down. All I could think was there is a freakin' beach 3 miiles away and we are looking at tshirts!!!

Amen Brother! I was being dragged around the streets of Tulum like a rag doll, and all I could think of was beer and beach, especially when I felt the sweat trickling down my back as we were haggling in a stifling stall with a vendor!

[PhyllisB]

Great pics, Maya! Oh how I wish I could find a place for one of those sinks in my house, they're so beautiful!

You and me both BR!!!!! How would we get them back to the states without breaking them?!?!?!?

[Lynnette]

You and me both BR!!!!! How would we get them back to the states without breaking them?!?!?!?

Why don't we go soon and find out??!!! :) Do you think one would fit into Gale's cooler/carry-on??? :D

[luvthesun]

I have tried TWICE to bring home giant frogs,, and no matter how hard I tried to pack them securely ..... a leg broke off.:(:(:mad:

[beachreader]

I know someone who bought a sink. They wrapped the heck out of it and carried it on the plane. They said it worked fine, so I guess that's one way.

Hmm, planning how to bring home something my house can't use from a place I won't be back to for seven months. Talk about virtual shopping!

[mgsipa]

http://smileys.smileycentral.com/cat/23/23_29_132.gif (http://www.tulum.info/redirector.php?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.smileycentral. com%2F%3Fpartner%3DZSzeb001_ZNxmk762YYUS) mayaflya! That reminds me of the advice we give to folks swimming in the springs around here...it's easier to get back in your boat if you wedge your propeller into one of the manatees and use them as a step stool! :)

I see you're maintaining your "monopoly on stirring the pot!" again... LOL

[mgsipa]

I have tried TWICE to bring home giant frogs,, and no matter how hard I tried to pack them securely ..... a leg broke off.:(:(:mad:

I think PETA's going to shut us down soon....:)

[mgsipa]

Mayafly, thanks for a great trip report and seriously great photos. I just LOVE threads like yours that have these short paragraphs one after another and large colorful photos to go with the story. Keep it going... I'm taking it all in before our trip next week, and I need as much info as my brain can handle!

[mayaflya]

Hmmm, so what else...that’s the trouble with this category method...you’re never quite sure when you are done...let’s see:

I posted my Pueblo Restaurant tour in this thread:

http://www.tulum.info/showpost.php?p=20127&postcount=189

I could tell you about our spa treatments at the Maya Spa...but I don’t have any pics of that....great experience though. Our first experience with Tulum was a June 2006 stay at Azulik, including their “touch for two massage”... We’d not been back to the EcoTulum complex, Cabanas Copal, Maya Spa, Azulik and Zahra since that first visit, and I very much wanted to take another clothing optional dip at their beach....the wife wanted a massage, so we headed over to the Maya Spa one morning, and made reservations for spa treatments that afternoon.

She signed up for an hour massage, I signed up for the Mayan bath, but we arrived a half hour early for our 3:30 appointment. The wife wanted to negotiate some small changes in her spa selection, so I left my stuff with her at the Spa reception, and zipped down towards the beach, shedding clothes along the way... I raced through the 99% textile crowd on the beach and dove into the water....with the wind, the surf was up, and that was what I had been missing all week, at the more sheltered Soliman Bay. It was such a blast to just play in the water for that short time... there’s a few things that keep us from returning for a stay at Azulik (mostly the $$$$) but I do love swimming in the ocean there.

I was in a good mood as we followed our masseuses thru the jungle path, past the Azulik cabanas, across the south beach, and up to the cliffs at Zahra...the wind was howling....and it was probably nuts to be getting a massage up there in those conditions..but I was loving it. They put us on opposite sides of a cloth partition...and told us to undress...a liitle silly, cause anybody on the beach on either side could see us up there...but we shouldn’t see each other....no matter.

The wife got started with her massage, while Gabrielle explained the Mayan bath process to me. She sat me down on a short stool, overlooking the surf below, while she began filling one of the two log tubs with water. She discovered that there was a lack of hot water, which should come as no surprise to Azulik regulars ;-) so she left me there for a while to get that rectified...no matter, the setting was magnificent, and I was getting into the meditative/spiritual aspects of the treatment....gathering my thoughts and preparing to pass my negative energy into the flowers and bath water...

When she got back, she did an exfoliation with a honey and herb mixture, then told me to get into the tub...which was filled with water, flowers and herbs. She washed the honey off, and then performed a massage in the tub with some kind of oil....she also washed my hair and massaged my scalp. At the end, she had me gather the floating flowers into a basket, and gave me a towel to dry off.

Next door, the wife was done, and we both wrapped ourselves in sheets and made our way together to a perch overlooking the ocean...We cast the blooms into the sea.... got dressed and made our way over to Zamas for an early dinner...

There, we enjoyed watching children play on the beach...

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2194/2358521989_7c3775f68f_o.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2002/2359356206_a6a213d6d4_o.jpg

And an amazing show put on by a kite surfer in the cove...how he was able to operate in that wind and stay off the rocks I don’t know.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2120/2359356094_d666efd383_o.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3195/2358522149_f8d69b4bc0_o.jpg

We walked back to the car as dusk fell, and caught the moon rising between two of the cabanas at Azulik.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2065/2358521901_bc4d3abb9e_o.jpg

I think that might be it folks....hope you enjoyed it!

[PhyllisB]

LOVED it maya!!!! Great great great job!!!!!!!!!

[beachreader]

Surely there must be more? Please?

[mayaflya]

Surely there must be more? Please?

MS Word puts my word count at 4000 plus...all within...checking watch now....72 hours of touching down...;-) surely that's enough to sate the appetitites of this ravenous horde....if you want more, you'll have to notice what's missing from my report......bwahhhahahha

[TheWindyCity]

Maya! You have to share pics of VDV, and a little more info on the hosts and guests!

Really enjoyed the pics, field work, and food descriptions. You have a great writing style. You gave us a lot of ideas for our upcoming trip as well.

[mayaflya]

Windy, you cheater! I told you I was keeping a lid on those details....nothing to see here folks, move along, move along.....;-P...Everybody here wants to stay on the beach south of Zamas, anyway....

I know!... another little story to distract the folks....

With all of the potential pitfalls of airline travel these days, I gotta say that this was our smoothest trip ever. Every flight was overbooked, but we still made each connection and arrival on time or early...and every piece of luggage made it unscathed. The new terminal 3 at Cancun handled the spring break crowds with flying colors...

We connected in Dallas, and while storms wreaked havoc there during the week we were gone, it functioned smoothly on our travel dates...we had a two hour scheduled layover on the return leg...and with luck that should be fine for clearing immigration and customs...we had pretty long lines at immigration, but still had to wait on our bags at the baggage carrousel a few minutes. I'd collected the last of them and loaded the cart to head for the customs checkpoint....and the wife was walking along behind me....I thought.

I'm pretty oblivious, or as I prefer to call it, focused...but eventually I realize that she is calling my name from a distance....I turn around and she is waving me back...I turn around and see that she is gesturing both towards me, and another oblivious (this time the description is apt) fool farther behind her.

Turns out she had spotted my brother and his wife in the same vast baggage hall....they were connecting on a flight from Jamaica to Kansas City through immigration at the same time we were connecting Cancun to Wichita! We had a short visit and ended up going thru customs and security together before heading to different terminals to catch our next flights.

Both wives have knee replacements (we must be hard on them or something) so I and my brother had the chance to wait together on them as they went through the extra screening that setting off the metal detectors requires...small world.

[AdGuy]

Again, mayaflya, I will say it to the world... http://smileys.smileycentral.com/cat/4/4_17_208.gif (http://www.tulum.info/redirector.php?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.smileycentral. com%2F%3Fpartner%3DZSzeb001_ZNxmk762YYUS)

Thank you for sharing your incredible trip!

[beachreader]

MS Word puts my word count at 4000 plus...all within...checking watch now....72 hours of touching down


Fair enough. I took almost two weeks to get mine even started. I'll go sit in the corner now.

[beachreader]

Really funny story about your brother in the airport! Seriously small world sometimes.

[John in DC]

I once ran into my brother, who lives in Southern California, at a rental car return lot in Hartford. We had both had short-notice, totally unrelated business trips, and neither of us had any idea that the other would be anywhere near there. It was kinda Twilight Zone actually....:earth:

[irishgirl]

MF - thanks for the great trip report. I have been learning so much from all of you I can't tell you how valuable this forum has been! Your pics and your sense of humor are terrific. Glad that you had a good time and thanks for sharing so quickly!!! :)

Tracy

[DougSR]

I got to admit something here. I've never had a professional massage. I know, you saying "your last trip to Tulum was with a masseuse. No massage?!?" But the answer is no. I've never had a one hour full body massage.

Maya, after that description, wow! I may have to try it in May. Thanks for the great TR.

[mayaflya]

I have mixed feelings about sharing too much information about where we stayed on Soliman Bay. We loved the venue so much, but it has limited availability..and we want to go back..there I said it, I’m selfish.

You ever notice that the people that stay on Soliman Bay never seem to say very much about where they were staying....I totally get that now.....(not mentioning any names, Lynnette, so your secret’s still safe!)

The bay is so shallow and the beach so rocky and you can’t really go swimming there (all true, BTW) Heaven help you if you get swept out of the break in the reef and the fish get a hold of you!

Just look at all the ugly rocks and seaweed!!!
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3162/2360355492_eb0a5de915_o.jpg

So I’m really doing you all a favor by only referring to the place we stayed by the initials VDV...

I gotta say that VDV is probably now "my" top choice for RM lodging. It had nearly everything that we could ask for, and was a great value. But it only has two rental units, and the owner told me that they only had 12 days without guests last year....and that’s with Hurricane Dean factored in.

Ohhhh, and oh, um yeah, it’s also clothing optional....

This was a very comfortable place to be nude. The fact that the pool area was private, and not visible from the neighboring properties and the beach, gave us a lovely place to retreat to if for some reason the beach got busy. While our hosts were not nudists, and the only other guest that was there while we were was not either, the fact the policy was clearly CO, made me comfortable enough to not worry about what they did or didn't do.

Even while the host's daughter was there visiting, I figured she was an adult, and was aware of the nature of the place....I did ask Connie (our host) why they had a C/O policy if he wasn’t a nudist himself...he told me it was good business, and shared the occupancy numbers with me.

The pool was a great amenity. It was a godsend on the windiest days, as it was bit more sheltered than the beach.I could also indulge one of my favorite summer pastimes, floating in the sun, drifting around the pool. If you got tired of floating around, you could pick from one of half a dozen comfortable loungers.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3010/2359520147_763b3de06e_o.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2305/2360355174_f4cb8db851_o.jpg

The guest casita is two story cement structure with sliding glass doors towards the pool, and another set towards the beach. Each floor has a bedroom with double bed, enclosed closet, chairs, minifridge, vanity/sink alcove, and a separate bathroom with toilet and tiled walk in shower. Very adequate, but not huge. Ceiling fan and wall mounted AC (which we did not need)

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3113/2359519791_537219bb8d_o.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3031/2359519887_1975c5c8db_o.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3231/2359520419_4919b76c98_o.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2109/2359520515_935a969cd6_o.jpg

The casita was connected to the main house by a thatch palapa. This was the breakfast area, and a nice area for socializing. Sort of the unspoken rule was if you wanted to chat, you'd stay under the palapa, if you wanted to be left alone, you'd sit by the pool. We got to know our hosts and the other guest pretty well. I even left our Chichen Itza map with the other guest as he was staying a few more days and wanted to visit Coba.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2234/2360354544_c2c2822f34_o.jpg



The beach was much nicer than Tankah Bay, with finer sand, and a really effective shade structure. The roof was semi open sticks, much like the roof decks at Azulik. It gave a filtered sun, that was just warm enough and just UV moderating enough to allow for being out almost all day. The loungers were very comfortable as well. The pool was five steps from our room, the beach about twenty. There is a low seawall, landscaped with palms that separates the beach from the raised pool area.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3044/2360355842_c96447513f_o.jpg

....now if only they could move a better beach over here.....but man....then the place would be overrun..

.....I’ll settle for Bahia Soliman and Day tripping to Tulum...;-)

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2202/2359519597_153e4d99ef_o.jpg

[Lynnette]

Shhhhhhhhhhhh!!! It's our secret!!!! ;) :)

Seriously, what a gorgeous property, and having the pool is a huge plus!! I would stay anywhere on Bahia de Soliman...it's heaven on earth!!! Your beautiful photos say it all!!

However, everyone stay away!!! As Maya said, there's rocks, and construction and oodles of turtle grass. :D

[DougSR]

However, everyone stay away!!! As Maya said, there's rocks, and construction and oodles of turtle grass. :D

I'm suprised that the beaches aren't primo. Isn't that where they do the Corona commercials?

[John in DC]

Soliman Bay is my favorite place in the world. We stay a little further north than you did, mayaflya. The beach on that end is smooth and sandy all the way out to... the slimey seaweed turtle grass that harbors who knows what-all that could nibble your toes or whip your legs with a poisonous spine. Scary place, that Soliman Bay -- not for the faint of heart. We'll be making our fifth trip in July.:)

Doug, the Corona commercial (just the one, with the beeper) was filmed on Paradise Bay, which is the slightly smaller bay just north of Soliman, where Oscar y Lalo was located. It shares the same access road.

[DougSR]

Thanks John. The more I read your posts the less i realize I know about this place.

[mariposa]

Wow! you're photos are amazing.Especially your food photos. I never quite got that down with my new camera. Looks like a really fun trip. Also, very impressive getting that posted so fast.

[RooTrekker]

Okay, no more about this place. Shhhhh!

I once heard of an awesome, secluded, quaint, place down south in Tulum called HL so we stayed there twice. Then it got talked up so much that it was hard to book and the price nearly doubled. Next thing you know, they paved the road -- Now all the talk about an airport and golf course and buses on the newly paved beach road. Yikes!

Let's keep SB low key or we'll likely see a landing strip right next to the pool at VDV.

Mayaflya, thanks for the tulumerific report and pics. You are really sooooo very helpful. People like you make the world a better place.

[PhyllisB]

No kidding, RooTrekker!!!! I learned a very valuable lesson after HL started getting all the buzz.... gotta keep those places to yourself. So where should we start sending people??? ;)


Okay, no more about this place. Shhhhh!

I once heard of an awesome, secluded, quaint, place down south in Tulum called HL so we stayed there twice. Then it got talked up so much that it was hard to book and the price nearly doubled. Next thing you know, they paved the road -- Now all the talk about an airport and golf course and buses on the newly paved beach road. Yikes!

Let's keep SB low key or we'll likely see a landing strip right next to the pool at VDV.

Mayaflya, thanks for the tulumerific report and pics. You are really sooooo very helpful. People like you make the world a better place.

[Lynnette]

No kidding, RooTrekker!!!! I learned a very valuable lesson after HL started getting all the buzz.... gotta keep those places to yourself. So where should we start sending people??? ;)

Anyplace NORTH of Akumal!!!! LOL :D

[John in DC]

Gray is the new black, and the Jersey Shore is the new Tulum!

[mayaflya]

Anyplace NORTH of Akumal!!!! LOL :D

Oh yes!, I hear there are some lovely resorts up there, where all you need is a wrist band and you can have all the food and alcohol you want! Free! Unbelievable!

Why would anyone even think of going someplace you actually have to pay for it....

[dionski]

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lynnette
Anyplace NORTH of Akumal!!!! LOL

[QUOTE]Oh yes!, I hear there are some lovely resorts up there, where all you need is a wrist band and you can have all the food and alcohol you want! Free! Unbelievable!

Why would anyone even think of going someplace you actually have to pay for it....
__________________

No doubt you guys! We stayed at Viva Azteca in Playacar last year and it was great we did not have to go anywhere! Those wristbands are wonderful:D

d2

[FITZ]

Whew!!! That was a great trip! Thanks and wow!

[beachreader]

[quote=dionski;20284 Those wristbands are wonderful:D

d2[/quote]


Wristbands are wonderful, and they're a great way to identify others like yourselves so you can talk to them and be safe from outsiders.

[dionski]

and the Jersey Shore is the new Tulum!


Wristbands are wonderful, and they're a great way to identify others like yourselves so you can talk to them and be safe from outsiders.

I wonder if they have an AI in Seaside Heights or Wildwood it would be great to walk around the boardwalk and know who the "insiders" were:D

d2

[beachreader]

We know who the insiders are already. If you don't know who the outsiders are, you must be one.

And I am SO relieved to hear that the Jersey Shore is the new Tulum, since I'm 15 minutes from the beach here. It'll save me thousands in air fare over the next few years! :)

[minniemex]

Mayaflya!! Totally awesome report!! I was cracking up as I read it and my boss would give me a funny look and I would have to explain why I did something stupid to make myself laugh!! LOL

A true bummer about the Huevos Motulenos!! I was planning those for my next trip too!! It just seems that quality control is lacking all over and sometimes the turnover is so great!! I know someone who followed my trip shortly to Zulum had totally different people working there!!

I love bucket lists!! Mine is sooooooooo long!! Glad you could cross one off!!

I also loved the expedited method of descending the pyramid!! I just can imagine!!

I loved the pants dummy - one of the things I laughed at!!

Just a small clarification - you spent over $35 US for a lime squeezer??

I seem to have over used the word "love", but I just can't think of any other word to describe how entertained I was by your report.

I am going to be curious how good the snorkeling is on your next trip to the VI - I had snorkel heaven in the Maldives (I am still trying to recover from the 12 hour time switch - just seems like I am always tired!!) - I am getting my pictures fixed up and loaded online so hope to have a report of sorts soon!!

Again, great report!! Thank you!!

[Toni]

And the pictures are great. You had a great report and I enjoyed it immensely!

[mayaflya]

Mayaflya!! Totally awesome report!! I was cracking up as I read it and my boss would give me a funny look and I would have to explain why I did something stupid to make myself laugh!! LOL

A true bummer about the Huevos Motulenos!! I was planning those for my next trip too!! It just seems that quality control is lacking all over and sometimes the turnover is so great!! I know someone who followed my trip shortly to Zulum had totally different people working there!!

I love bucket lists!! Mine is sooooooooo long!! Glad you could cross one off!!

I also loved the expedited method of descending the pyramid!! I just can imagine!!

I loved the pants dummy - one of the things I laughed at!!

Just a small clarification - you spent over $35 US for a lime squeezer??

I seem to have over used the word "love", but I just can't think of any other word to describe how entertained I was by your report.

I am going to be curious how good the snorkeling is on your next trip to the VI - I had snorkel heaven in the Maldives (I am still trying to recover from the 12 hour time switch - just seems like I am always tired!!) - I am getting my pictures fixed up and loaded online so hope to have a report of sorts soon!!

Again, great report!! Thank you!!

Thanks Minnie! We had such a good time, and it is a joy to share it!

As far as the mannequins...I was walking down the street and literally did a double take walking past that store.. I wasn't paying that close of attention, but then caught the view of some very attractive legs out of the corner of my eye...discreetly started to scan my eye up, up and GAAAAAAH there's no upper body!!! It about gave me a heart attack....I asked the bemused sales clerk if I could snap a few pics...she smiled and shrugged...

The lime squeezer....yes...$35 USD...I really am a lime squeezer connisseur...and everything we had been finding up to that point had been lightweight, too small, too large...this shop had really high quality kitchen wares...I saw it and it called my name...from that window.."take me home to America, you sexy gringo...I will make you the most delicious margaritas"...what can I say?

We are really looking forward to the VI trip...and the timing is just far enough away...that we can enjoy the anticipation...and I'll have my prescription mask this time!

[Lynnette]

I'm sure the shop clerk had some fun retelling her encounter with the loco gringo who wanted to take a photo of the "half" mannequin. LOL

[beachreader]

I have to say, that was the sexiest mannequin I've ever seen (straight girls can say that). US mannequins are always so scary, stick legs, no butts, they have to pin the clothes on them to give them shape. Rock on with the curvy mannequins!

[minniemex]

The lime squeezer....yes...$35 USD...I really am a lime squeezer connisseur...and everything we had been finding up to that point had been lightweight, too small, too large...this shop had really high quality kitchen wares...I saw it and it called my name...from that window.."take me home to America, you sexy gringo...I will make you the most delicious margaritas"...what can I say?

We are really looking forward to the VI trip...and the timing is just far enough away...that we can enjoy the anticipation...and I'll have my prescription mask this time!

I am going to have to google the lime squeezers!! LOL

Quick question - is your VI trip with Windjammers?? That is on my bucket list, so I was just curious.

[mayaflya]

Quick question - is your VI trip with Windjammers?? That is on my bucket list, so I was just curious.

No, it's a crewed cabin charter on a 36' catamaran:
http://www.soulofthecaribbean.com/
...so it'll be a little more of a hands-on, feet wet experience. We're celebrating our 25th anniversary, and we wanted to do something we had never done before..a little scary, a lot unknown, but exciting, and potentially amazing...to launch the second half of our life together!

[minniemex]

Too cool!! I can hardly wait to hear how it goes!! Like I said, something along those lines are also on my "list"!! I am especially interested in the snorkeling, as now after the Maldives, the bar is really set high!!

[Lynnette]

No, it's a crewed cabin charter on a 36' catamaran:
http://www.soulofthecaribbean.com/ (http://www.tulum.info/redirector.php?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.soulofthecarib bean.com%2F)
...so it'll be a little more of a hands-on, feet wet experience. We're celebrating our 25th anniversary, and we wanted to do something we had never done before..a little scary, a lot unknown, but exciting, and potentially amazing...to launch the second half of our life together!

What a fabulous trip, and I love your phrasing....launching the second half of our life together!!! Congrats on your 25th!!

[beachreader]

I love the Mayaflyas, hope we can all get together sometime.

Minnie, the boat charter thing has been on my list for a long time too. Not necessarily Windjammers, which are really large boats (though they were on my dream list for a long time), because I've heard they're more like cruises, with costume parties and lots of twenty-somethings, but there's a company called The Moorings that I came across at one point, you can either do a bare-boat charter or one with captain and crew.

I worry about my seasickness, but it's still something I'd really love to do, and I'm sure the sickness would pass as I get my sea legs back. And I'm usually OK if I have the wind in my face and my eyes on the horizon. Just don't ask me to go below to search through a bag or something. Ugh.

Thanks for the link, Maya, I'll take a look at their boats too.

[Swimmer1]

Sailing on a crewed charter, like the Moorings or Soul of the Caribbean is also on my bucket list. Another good one is www.addtolifeyachtcharters.net (http://www.addtolifeyachtcharters.net/). I sent for a brochure and received not only email answers to my questions, but also a personal phone call! Talking my husband into going on this small of a boat out in the Caribbean is what I have to work on! My bucket list is tremendously long also!
Another topic and questions for anyone who can help: In late Nov.-early Dec. of this year we would like to combine a couple nights on the Tulum beach (possibly Tita Tulum) with 2-3 nights in Tulum Pueblo (possibly Posada Luna del Sur) and end up with 7 nights at an all-inclusive. We would also have to provide our own transportation on the way down. I know how to handle the AI (we’ve used Apple, Funjet, Vacation Express and Cheap Caribbean). We’ve even combined 2 different AIs. We usually make our reservations months in advance. Calling Mexico is impossible, so my question is how do you guys handle making reservations? Is it safe to uses the sites of the above 2 hotels to do this (using a credit card)?
Swimmer1

[beachreader]

Swimmer, why don't you post your question as a separate thread? That way we'll keep Mayaflya's thread clear of answers on your trip.

I mean, I'm all for a good hijacking, but really , it will be better.

[Swimmer1]

Beachreader,
I shall post my questions as a separate thread. Sorry, I didn't mean to hijack it!
Swimmer1

[Maineacs]

Great reporting! Love the photos and you comprehensive coverage.

[beachreader]

Beachreader,
I shall post my questions as a separate thread. Sorry, I didn't mean to hijack it!
Swimmer1


The thread is pretty much already hijacked, I just thought it would be better to have your stuff all in one place, apart from the theoretically related hijackings we've been carryong on for pages! :)