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heenan
23rd February 2008, 08:38 PM
Wed. – Day One of Trip to La Via Laktea in February 2008

We headed down to Tulum from Playa del Carmen around 10 a.m. We had been staying at a resort north of PDC for a seminar I attended. The resort was great, but the beach was nothing like Tulum’s. The drive was fine – no stops by the police this time (although I was more prepared for the local honorarium than last time).

The highway continues to improve and there is less of the 4 lanes in 2 lanes/highway of death each time we travel to Tulum. We stopped at the grocery on 307 and the beach road for a few drinks before turning down the beach road. Of course, the excitement builds as one makes that turn. The road from 307 to the beach is under construction to add lanes (it appears) and not in good shape so the driving was slower (for us anyway). Turned south on the beach road, and passed several familiar sites before we got that first big look at the ocean by Zamas. The road just past Zamas is in poor condition in a couple of spots, but otherwise the beach road was good.

The entrance to La Via Laktea was easy to spot. There is a sign that says: “La Via Laktea – Luxury Cabanas.” The drive in from the beach road was as the pictures on LVL”s website depict – sand and palm trees. The office for LVL is next to the parking area and below the beach dune in the shade. We had a bit of a problem checking in as the owners were not there and the two women who were did not speak any English, which with my limited Spanish made for difficult communications. The women did understand our last name and with us holding our bags and a backpack could see that we wanted to check in. The women showed us their reservation book, which had us down for Thursday and Friday nights but not Wednesday night. By pointing, I think we were able to show them that we were supposed to have a reservation for Wednesday night. The younger woman (who looked about 14 but is actually 20, married and has a 3-year-old as we learned from other guests) called the owner on the phone and after talking to her a few minutes put me on the phone. The owner explained that it was their mistake and they would get a room ready in a few minutes, which the young woman did. Apparently, they had put another set of guests who had arrived a few minutes earlier in our room by mistake. While we were waiting for the other guests to move rooms, a nice Canadian couple staying at LVL came to the office. They filled us in on some of the details of the hotel and offered some tips on things to do in Tulum. They said they have stayed at LVL each of the last five years since it opened, and that the owners called them the hotel’s “first guests.” They gave the hotel high marks.

The young woman then led us up the dune to our room where we had our first confrontation with the stairs to Room 3. The first flight was not a problem. But the second flight is more like climbing a ladder or some mountain climbing experience with a back pack on my back and a suitcase in one hand. Balance was key. But the climb was well worth it, as we now had a view of the Tulum beach and ocean!

We had Room 3, which is the top level in the middle cabana. The middle cabana sits a little closer to the ocean than the two on either side, which helps to avoid everyone sitting in a row on their decks. As Phyllis observed, the cabanas and decks are pretty close to each other. But with my focus on the ocean and beach, I did not notice much.

The cabanas are fairly large as is the deck. Our cabana had five windows that opened with screens. Three window were large and on the sides of the cabana. Two windows were in the bathroom – one above the shower side and the other above the toilet side up high on the wall. The windows provided plenty of cross-ventilation and breezes for cooling. One nice addition, as Phyllis mentioned I believe, would have been a screen on the door to the deck so one could see the ocean and beach from bed.

A quick change from travel clothes to swim suits, and we were on the beach for the afternoon. There were three or four other groups at LVL also, and Hamaca Loca next door seemed fairly full. But aside from these two properties next to each other, the beach was pretty well deserted to the north until Dos Ceibas and Las Ranitas which are next to each other also, and until Casa Magna to the south.

We took a brief break from the beach to have afternoon margaritas and guacamole at Dos Ceibas. Both were very good. Then we returned to LVL’s beach for more reading, sun and dozing. As the afternoon progressed, we turned our lounge chairs to the south and then more to the west. We were both facing west toward the sun when the temperature started dropping and the wind picked up, and there was a sound of distant thunder. Turning over and looking to the north, we could see a storm moving down the coast. This seemed like an odd direction to me, but we had no choice but to retreat to Room 3 and just in time to avoid the down pour.

After the rain, it was time to try out the hot water in the shower. This can be a bit of an adventure in Tulum with water pressure and water temperature being quite different than home. There did not seem to be any hot water in the shower so it was off to the office to ask if there any special directions. (In a past hotel, there was some mechanical work that had to be done to get hot water.)

Again, we had the language hurdle at the office as the owners were not back yet. But I had time to plan my phrase and sign language – “agua caliente” and hand signals to symbolize water falling onto my head. The young woman at the office understood me and was able to hand signal me and explain in Spanish to let the water run for five minutes. That did the trick.

For dinner, we went to Don Cafeto’s in Tulum Pueblo – a favorite of ours. Sidewalk dining, organ music, and great Mexican food. It is always fun to people watch in the evening in the Pueblo.

After dinner, it was back to LVL to tackle the stairs by night. We had a half moon so there was pretty good light, and we did not really need the flashlight we brought. On the drive back to LVL, we saw what looked like a coatamundi walking next to the beach road. We have not seen one of these before so we may have been mistaken. But I am sure it was not a dog or a cat.

Back at LVL, we enjoyed the brief electricity to watch a movie on our laptop and charge our cell phones. Learning that the electricity was on only in the evenings at LVL was a surprise. We know that is the case at many of the places on the beach, but I had thought LVL has full time electricity. We quickly adapted however.

I might mention that cell phone and blackberry service on the beach was much improved since our last trip. Not that we checked either throughout the day. But text messages and the occasional phone call were great ways to keep up with our teenagers at home. We also noticed that more of the hotels had wi-fi service which came in handy at Las Ranitas one day when we both needed to check email.

The movie was the end of our first day back in Tulum. Sleeping to the sound of the waves again was great!

Day two to come soon.
Heenan

pics at http://www.flickr.com/photos/23872398@N03/

TnTWalter
23rd February 2008, 09:41 PM
Yipee!!! A report!!! Love it!!
:eat-drink:

Beautiful view....wowza on the stairs....I'd have a hard time without margaritas.

First day sounds a little stressful but glad it worked out for you. :palmtree:

Looking forward to more!

heenan
23rd February 2008, 10:48 PM
Not so stressful really. We have had some language issues before in checking in, and we knew we had the reservatons because they were prepaid through Loco Gringo. We could tell from the reservation book that LVL's eight rooms were not all taken, too.

PhyllisB
24th February 2008, 09:14 AM
Hey Heenan! yipeeee for day 1!

We also had reservation "confusion" with them. It worked out since there wasn't anyone else really staying there for the same length of time we were. I know we went back and forth over email several times as I debated just how long to stay, so it's probably partly my own fault (didn't go through LG).

And we had the same shower experience too! The first time we got cold water (the first morning), Bambu's (boyfriend?husband?) re-lit the pilot light for us thinking the storm the night before might have knocked it out. But then we just started letting the water run and run for a LONG time before getting in. Then after a few minutes it would feel boiling hot! Very strange. And felt like such a waste of water to have it running for so long before getting in!

I don't know the younger woman you mentioned, but I had fun trying to communicate with Angela - she's so animated and friendly, even though I butchered everything it was still fun!

Can't wait for days 2 and 3!

p.

luvthesun
24th February 2008, 10:09 AM
Can't wait for day 2! And I'm surprised that Las Ranitas has wi-fi. Now I have to decide whether or not to bring my laptop! urrrrrrrggghh! It IS amusing on the plane, after all... but aren't we all trying to get away from that? decisions....

FITZ
24th February 2008, 12:35 PM
Thank you, thank you , thank you for the report!

Jana
24th February 2008, 02:58 PM
Thanks for the report - can't wait for the rest! :D

Jana

boreal j k
24th February 2008, 06:10 PM
Enjoying the report. Hope to see more real soon....

heenan
24th February 2008, 07:12 PM
It is a tough question whether to bring a laptop. The first few times we went to PDC and Tulum connectivity was not an issue as there was none. We think it's nice to be able to connect if there is a need. Even when I do, the office seems a lot further away with the beach right there in front of me!

mayaflya
25th February 2008, 07:25 AM
Great report and pictures.....now if only there was a way to put them together.....;-)

minniemex
25th February 2008, 07:35 AM
Heenan - thanks for the start of your report!! It so helped this blah, foggy Monday morning. Such a little fix though!! ;)

Great pictures, as I stated before, love the one of the two of you!!

AdGuy
25th February 2008, 08:17 AM
http://smileys.smileycentral.com/cat/23/23_1_86.gif (http://www.tulum.info/redirector.php?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.smileycentral. com%2F%3Fpartner%3DZSzeb001_ZNxmk762YYUS) ...a trip report!!! Can't wait to read more!!!!! http://smileys.smileycentral.com/cat/11/11_9_10.gif (http://www.tulum.info/redirector.php?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.smileycentral. com%2F%3Fpartner%3DZSzeb001_ZNxmk762YYUS)

TheWindyCity
26th February 2008, 12:33 PM
Nice starting report Heenan. Loved the animated "no agua caliente" scene.:p Which cell phone service do you have, by the way?

heenan
26th February 2008, 08:15 PM
I have tmobile with a blackberry. My blackberry service worked better than my cell service. My wife has at&t or cingular (I can't keep up with the names of all the cell companies). Texting worked all the time.

The word "caliente" was ingrained in my memory from our prior trip to Tulum when the guy at Paryso Hotel explained to us why the top floor room was not what we wanted by saying "caliente" repeatedly.

Heenan

heenan
28th February 2008, 11:13 PM
Better get my next installment posted.

Day Two - Thursday

Sunrise on deck

Up early to catch part of the sunrise on the deck. The night was full of waves, wind and some rain. All sounds I love at night, but my wife not so much went it comes to wind. Not that the cabanas at LVL are anything but sturdy in the rain. It’s just a product of living in tornado alley.

Breakfast at Zamas

We went to Zamas for breakfast because we like their coffee selections, their banana pancakes and the view. The waiters are also nice for letting my try some Spanish. I learn a couple of words each time from them.

There was a large group at one table that seemed to be studying for some kind of course or class. I could not pick up what it was, but did hear enough to get that the group had a mixture of English and German folks. One of the things we like about Tulum is the different nationalities that visit the area.

After breakfast, we drove north on the beach road to check out any changes in properties since our last visit. Did not see much that looked different. This time when we turned around at the far north end of the beach road, we had no trouble putting the car in reverse because it had an automatic transmission. On a previous trip, I could not for the life of me find reverse in the manual transmission. I was in danger of rolling off the side of the road with a full gallery of locals and tourists watching in amusement, until I asked a soldier for help. He quickly showed me the trick and I got the car backed up and turned around.

After driving the north end of the road, we headed back south to LVL, but stopped at two hotels on the way back – Puerta del Ceilo and Ana y Jose’s. Our pics of these properties are on our trip pics on flickr. Puerta del Ceilo is new. I don’t know if anyone on the board has stayed there. It is a fairly large property in terms of beach frontage. It has a restaurant and bar, and a small pool. There are two large villas and several cabanas, which I did not count. The cabanas are closer to the beach, with the villas on the dune. Guests were staying in the villas so we could not peek in the windows. We did learn from one of the restaurant employees that the villas are $200 a night, and have 24 hour electricity. AyJ was a very nice looking property, but much more compact or packed in than what I had expected from its website. The property’s grounds were more manicured than most Tulum beach hotels, and it has quite a few rooms or accommodations.

Last stop was at one of the mini-markets for restocking of sun screen. Never want to run short of sun screen and have to leave the beach mid-day.

Beach

After breakfast and our exploring, it was time for the beach. No problem with lounge chairs. There were plenty for the LVL guests. There was some turnover in guests from the prior day, and a couple less guests on Thursday. The sun was out, and it was warm. After some sun time, it was time for a bit of body surfing. My wife thought the water was too cool to swim, but it did not take me long to get used to it. Then it was back to reading on the lounge chair and watching the few walkers on the south end of the beach.

Next, in the full day that it is on Tulum beach, it was time for a beach walk. We walked south past Hamaca Loca, Casa Magna, and Rancho San Eric into the Sian Kaan for quite a ways. There seemed to be a few more people south of Rancho San Eric than we had seen before. We checked out Hechizo’s sign on the beach because we had a reservation for dinner.

After walking for awhile, it was time for a rest and contemplation of the palm trees and the waves. This was the only time we did not see soldiers walking on the south part of the beach or driving four-wheelers down the beach. The only thing to spoil the feeling of isolation was the occasional sound of a truck from the road into the Sian Kaan. How much one can hear the trucks varies on how close the road is to the portion of the beach you pick to sit on.

Returning from our walk, it was time for more lounging and reading. But before long, thirst set in, and we had to wander north to Las Ranitas for drinking material. They say that the only way to really quench a beach thirst is with a margarita (sounds pretty good) so that is what we had. But we were really thirsty so a couple were necessary, as was some guacamole.

Las Ranitas was fairly crowded for lunch. Talked with a couple from Hollywood who were having lunch there. (They were probably famous, but I would not know.) We talked about places to stay in Tulum, and when they learned we were at LVL, they asked which room and were disappointed to learn that it was Room 3. They said they had stayed in Room 3 on their last trip to Tulum and had tried to get it again, but were told it was reserved. Imagine that, running into the people who reserved your favorite room while at lunch at a different place. It seemed that several times on the trip we saw the same couples or families in different places on the beach or in restaurants. Interesting to see who all Tulum attracts.

After quenching our thirst, it was necessary to return to LVL to rest, followed by a snooze. And then a bit more swimming. Sometime around 5 p.m. after a full day at the beach it was time to retire to Room 3. Letting the time pass instead of filling the day is one of the great things about being in Tulum.

Dinner at Hechizo

Our dinner reservations were at Hechizo – on Valetine’s night. We were excited to go there for the first time, and it did not disappoint. The entire experience is quite unexpected in Tulum. From the walkway into the restaurant which is lighted with conch shells to the aquarium in the entrance to the restaurant to the food, especially the food, it is a great place. We could not say enough about the food, service and ambience of Hechizo and highly recommend it. We should note though as others have that it does not take credit cards and it is more expensive than any other restaurants in Tulum so be prepared with cash.

After dinner, there was time for another movie, but we fell asleep after a short time to the wind and the waves again.

Only one more full day left.

TnTWalter
29th February 2008, 07:27 AM
Fabulous report!! Great pictures. I LOVE how you wrote details under the pictures so we know what we're looking at. Thanks so much!!
:eat-drink:

minniemex
29th February 2008, 08:55 AM
http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k83/Minniemex/GLITTERS/v5.gif Love the dinner at Hechizo on Valentines day!!

Sorry you only have one day left.............:(

PhyllisB
29th February 2008, 10:28 AM
What a great day! And what a great way to spend Valentine's!

heenan
29th February 2008, 09:51 PM
After spending Valentine's at Hechizo's, I have decided that we should make it an annual event!

minniemex
29th February 2008, 10:15 PM
I think that is an awesome idea!! I would love to do the same, but have too many birthdays (grandkids - 3 of them) in February and they live in Canada, so it is always off to Canada in February!!

heenan
19th April 2008, 07:07 AM
With all the great trip reports started in the last week, I felt the inspiration to relive our last trip to Tulum by completing the last day of our trip report. Not much excitement on this final day as we were fully immersed in Tulum time.

Fri. - Day 3 on Feb. 2008 trip to Tulum

Last day in Tulum for this trip begins with another beautiful sunrise. Sitting on the deck reading a bit and watching the waves is a perfect way to start the day. We went to Zamas again for breakfast. Zamas is a favorite of ours – good coffee, open relatively early for the Tulum beach and good food. Today’s breakfast selection was the granola and fruit. We saw some of the same group of adults from Germany and/or England studying written class-like materials at another table. It is interesting to listen to the different accents and languages, and I was wondering what class they were all taking. I could not figure it out.

After breakfast, we stopped by Om and Ochoa, two new or remodeled resorts along the beach, to get a look at what they had to offer. This was part of our reconnaissence for future trips. Both looked nice, but seemed a bit squeezed into their spaces along the beach. One of them had buildings with several rooms instead of individual cabana type rooms.

We spent our last day primarily on the beach. We took another long walk into the Sian Kaan, and did not see as many people there today. We had a late lunch and margaritas as Las Ranitas again, which seemed pretty busy at least by the lunch time crowd. And of course, we had a snooze on the beach in the late afternoon.

For dinner, we chose La Zebra. We had gone to the Sunday Salsa dancing barbeque the last time we were in Tulum and enjoyed it. This Friday night was quieter, but the atmosphere and food were good.

After dinner, we went to Mezzanine to see what the dj party was all about. Mezzanine was quite crowded for this event. Unfortunately, we cannot report on the party. It was advertised as starting at 9 pm, but by 10 pm, there was still no sign of any dj and we decided it was time for sleep since we had an early flight the next morning.

Back at LVL, we negotiated the stairs to our second level cabana one last time by moonlight.

The next morning, we had our only real experience with the lack of electricity. When our alarm went off at 5 am, I immediately reached to turn on the bedside lamp but nothing happened. And then we remembered. Fortunately, we had packed the night before and we basically ready to go.

Driving out of Tulum, we hoped to find one restaurant open at that time for coffee, but knew it was unlikely. Thus, we got to visit a common stateside convenience store in our region for coffee and Mexican pastries – 7-11 which is always open. It did not have the Tulum feel, but it had what we needed for the drive - caffeine.

We thought traffic on a Saturday morning early would be light, but there were a lot of large trucks on the highway. We did however avoid any radar traps this time.

Till our next trip in Tulum. Heenan

debski
19th April 2008, 09:54 AM
it's so cool looking at pictures and knowing you were there, recognizing pics and places. Thanks, your pics are great!!!!

AdGuy
21st April 2008, 07:01 AM
Well done...thanks for sharing! http://smileys.smileycentral.com/cat/36/36_1_55.gif (http://www.smileycentral.com/?partner=ZSzeb001_ZNxmk762YYUS)

heenan
17th May 2008, 09:41 AM
Added a couple of short videos of the la playa at La Via Laktea on my flickr site. Video is a new feature on flickr, but is limited to 90 seconds. Here's the link: http://www.flickr.com/photos/23872398@N03/sets/72157603927671916/. Videos are last two items in the set.
Heenan

Solbound
18th May 2008, 08:57 AM
Cool! Taking video is something we haven't tried yet. Will have to experiment for the next trip. :D