mayaflya
2nd October 2007, 01:42 PM
We booked a cenote snorkeling tour with the dive operator that operates out of Copal. That turned out to be a really fun experience. We walked over to Copal reception one morning after breakfast to arrange the snorkeling tour and reserve spa sessions. Jorge, the proprietor of “Dive Tulum”, was all white uniform and laminated tour folders, showing us all the wonderful options. We decided on cenote snorkeling, as the wife was a little cautious about getting out in the open water. Jorge told us to return at noon the next day for a two to three hour tour of three cenotes.
We show up the next day and there is Jorge, shirtless, baggy trunks and sandals. He gets the snorkel gear out, we try it on, all pile in his beater Ford van and head to town, where he runs around various neighborhoods picking up flashlights and other odds and ends. Then we start slowly cruising the main drag of Tulum, with Jorge obviously looking for someone or something. All this time he is keeping up a happy patter of conversation. He finally spots two young women across the street and starts whistling and gesturing to them. The wife and I are looking at each other and thinking, “did we misunderstand the type of “tour” we were getting into?”
But as it turned out, the two women were also booked on the snorkel tour, but were in town to rent a car to continue their vacation. They followed us in their rental car to the cenotes, and the five of us had a great time bopping around from cenote to cenote, snorkeling. The two were sisters vacationing together for the first time since childhood, and were having the time of their lives. They had been staying at Copal, but were on their way to a new destination, which they hadn't decided on yet. At one point one of them got a look of recognition in her eyes and asked, "you're staying at Copal aren't you?" We said. “no”, but that we were at Azulik. "ohhhhh". I guess there is some distinction in being one of the only fat naked guys on the beach!
I was somewhat nervous about our meals in Mexico, not because I was worried about gastro-intestinal problems, but because I was afraid it would be too good. I had worked very hard to develop the eating habits that, prior to our trip, enabled me to lose twenty pounds, and I didn't want to put those pounds back on in a week.
We ate two meals a day while on vacation, usually a mid-morning breakfast and then an early evening dinner. This seemed to work for both of us. I did gain back a couple of pounds, but they are on their way off this week already.
The food was uniformly good. We did not have a bad meal. It amazes me that there are scores of these little restaurants all over the beaches and town of Tulum and they all have great food. They are cooking under some pretty rustic conditions in most cases, and it is all fresh, flavorful, and delicious. Service was fast and attentive (with the exceptions I'll note later) and the prices were reasonable, comparable to eating out here in the states.
What it came down to for us, then, was atmosphere and convenience. I mentioned the weather was hot and conditions buggy away from the beach. We ate one dinner in Tulum (Charlie's) and the grilled fish was simply amazing (with diced tomato and capers) but we were sweating like pigs, and fending off mosquitos. We had two breakfasts in town, when conditions were better, one at Don Cafetos and one on the sidewalk in front of Pan Playa del Carmen. I love the bakeries in Mexico, all those open trays of baked goods, to just wander around and pick from. It is such a sensual experience for a bread lover. You just don't want to be the next guy in the store after me ;-)
No, in June, the beach is the only place to eat in Tulum. There is simply no reason not to. We ate dinner at a different restaurant each night and did not begin to get to all of the ones that had positive recommendations from our trip research.
We drove north one night, later than our usual dinner time, because it was the afternoon we had our massage, to Nachos latitude 20 degrees (now Mayan Grill), a little ways past the junction of the town road. We were the only ones there at the time. We took a table in the sand, under the stars, with a candle our only illumination. The waiter brought out the day's catch on a platter to show us how fresh it was. We had the special; mussels, calamari, octopus, fish, shrimp, and chicken, all grilled to perfection. The chef asked if we wanted to try some garlic sauce he was experimenting with, and brought us a small saucepan for our table. I remember telling the wife, that back in the states, restaurants spend thousands to “fake” that kind of ambience. In Tulum you can have the real thing every night, down to the stray cat begging for scraps at your feet.
We ate at Luna Maya and Piedra Escondido, all on the beach, an easy walk, either along the beach or on the road.
http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1037/1472892030_386f338099_o.jpg
All good. We drove south to Ana y Jose one night and it was good, and on the beach, but it was a little too upscale and formal for our taste. Not that we felt uncomfortable there, but it was obviously trying to look and feel like a fancier resort.
(to be continued)
We show up the next day and there is Jorge, shirtless, baggy trunks and sandals. He gets the snorkel gear out, we try it on, all pile in his beater Ford van and head to town, where he runs around various neighborhoods picking up flashlights and other odds and ends. Then we start slowly cruising the main drag of Tulum, with Jorge obviously looking for someone or something. All this time he is keeping up a happy patter of conversation. He finally spots two young women across the street and starts whistling and gesturing to them. The wife and I are looking at each other and thinking, “did we misunderstand the type of “tour” we were getting into?”
But as it turned out, the two women were also booked on the snorkel tour, but were in town to rent a car to continue their vacation. They followed us in their rental car to the cenotes, and the five of us had a great time bopping around from cenote to cenote, snorkeling. The two were sisters vacationing together for the first time since childhood, and were having the time of their lives. They had been staying at Copal, but were on their way to a new destination, which they hadn't decided on yet. At one point one of them got a look of recognition in her eyes and asked, "you're staying at Copal aren't you?" We said. “no”, but that we were at Azulik. "ohhhhh". I guess there is some distinction in being one of the only fat naked guys on the beach!
I was somewhat nervous about our meals in Mexico, not because I was worried about gastro-intestinal problems, but because I was afraid it would be too good. I had worked very hard to develop the eating habits that, prior to our trip, enabled me to lose twenty pounds, and I didn't want to put those pounds back on in a week.
We ate two meals a day while on vacation, usually a mid-morning breakfast and then an early evening dinner. This seemed to work for both of us. I did gain back a couple of pounds, but they are on their way off this week already.
The food was uniformly good. We did not have a bad meal. It amazes me that there are scores of these little restaurants all over the beaches and town of Tulum and they all have great food. They are cooking under some pretty rustic conditions in most cases, and it is all fresh, flavorful, and delicious. Service was fast and attentive (with the exceptions I'll note later) and the prices were reasonable, comparable to eating out here in the states.
What it came down to for us, then, was atmosphere and convenience. I mentioned the weather was hot and conditions buggy away from the beach. We ate one dinner in Tulum (Charlie's) and the grilled fish was simply amazing (with diced tomato and capers) but we were sweating like pigs, and fending off mosquitos. We had two breakfasts in town, when conditions were better, one at Don Cafetos and one on the sidewalk in front of Pan Playa del Carmen. I love the bakeries in Mexico, all those open trays of baked goods, to just wander around and pick from. It is such a sensual experience for a bread lover. You just don't want to be the next guy in the store after me ;-)
No, in June, the beach is the only place to eat in Tulum. There is simply no reason not to. We ate dinner at a different restaurant each night and did not begin to get to all of the ones that had positive recommendations from our trip research.
We drove north one night, later than our usual dinner time, because it was the afternoon we had our massage, to Nachos latitude 20 degrees (now Mayan Grill), a little ways past the junction of the town road. We were the only ones there at the time. We took a table in the sand, under the stars, with a candle our only illumination. The waiter brought out the day's catch on a platter to show us how fresh it was. We had the special; mussels, calamari, octopus, fish, shrimp, and chicken, all grilled to perfection. The chef asked if we wanted to try some garlic sauce he was experimenting with, and brought us a small saucepan for our table. I remember telling the wife, that back in the states, restaurants spend thousands to “fake” that kind of ambience. In Tulum you can have the real thing every night, down to the stray cat begging for scraps at your feet.
We ate at Luna Maya and Piedra Escondido, all on the beach, an easy walk, either along the beach or on the road.
http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1037/1472892030_386f338099_o.jpg
All good. We drove south to Ana y Jose one night and it was good, and on the beach, but it was a little too upscale and formal for our taste. Not that we felt uncomfortable there, but it was obviously trying to look and feel like a fancier resort.
(to be continued)